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Yesterday as per hot tub stores recommendations, I shocked it first, then added 1 tablespoon of sanitizer granules not 1 cap like before!!!! lol
Only thing i did different was the sample size of water. First day I used the 10ml measurement and multiplied the drops by 0.5, (trying to save reagent) Second day I used the 25ml measurement and multiplied the drops by 0.2. Just for fun I am going to check it again today. It's reassuring to hear that I should trust the Taylor Kit. Thats why we bought it. Yesterday as per hot tub stores recommendations, I shocked it first, then added 1 tablespoon of sanitizer granules not 1 cap like before!!!! lolNot really sure what you mean about the Taylor Kit and combined chlorine though!!!!Thanks for your help
Quote from: ewaba on February 11, 2016, 08:21:38 amYesterday as per hot tub stores recommendations, I shocked it first, then added 1 tablespoon of sanitizer granules not 1 cap like before!!!! lolSo you shocked the water, and then shocked it again? You're headed in the right direction. Get your TA down to 60-80 ppm, which means adding a few more ounces of pH down, or acid. I use standard muriatic acid that I get at my local hardware store, $5 per gallon. I don't worry about CC, just how much Free Chlorine (FC) is in the water. If you check one day and the FC is at 3ppm, and then check two days later, the FC will be zero. Just because nobody has used the tub doesn't mean the FC will be constant. You have to add chlorine every day or every other day, depending on how much you add. With experience, you will be adding chemicals with confidence. Don't overthink it right now. Having the best test kit available is a great start. I think with a pH of 7.5 - it doesn't matter what the alkalinity is - it will be kind of locked in. Non chlorine shock is acidic (pH around 4) so it will drop it down. Dichlor ultimately becomes acidic so it too will eventually drop it down. If the pH was high and needed to be adjusted low - then adjusting alkalinity low will work.