Gecko S Spa Pack - 3 Flashing Dots Error

[scitaly89]

Hi there,

I'm hoping I can get some help before giving up on my tub. I'm at the point where I either drain it and hope it doesn't freeze for the winter, or replace the SPA pack. I am saving for a wedding, so looking for cost effective options, and a new pack isn't cheap! Thank for reading and here's my story:

I bought a used hot tub privately and having issues, starting to believe it's the pack. I have a Sunrise Spas 599 (2004) and it has a Gecko S Spa pack. I am in Canada.

Issue: 3 flashing dot error on LED topside display. I set the temperature (say 102 degrees) and it will heat up no problem. Once it hits that temperature, within about 20 seconds the 3 flashing dots appear.
The circular pump does not turn off (I've heard mixed things that it should or shouldn't, mine seems to stay on 24/7). I can bypass the error by unplugging the pressure switch for 5 seconds, then plugging back in. I hear it "click" and it works again.
My routine now is when I get home from work, it's at about 95 degrees, I reset it, and in about an hour it can be used. This isn't sustainable, as winter is approaching we'll have -20.C weather and it will surely freeze the lines when I'm away from home for more than 24 hours.

I've replaced the pressure switch, still have the issue. I tried removing the filters to see if it was flow related, still have the issue.
I'm wondering if I need to replace the SPA pack or if there's any other solution? What could be wrong that I can repair?

If it is the board, how can I get only what I need (I mean, I see S Spa packs for sale online, local dealer is charging $800+ tax, but I think my heater and everything works. Is it possible/cheaper and relatively easy to just buy a board and replace it?).

Thanks so much for any/all suggestions!

[scitaly89]

I should add... the topside LED display also has an issue. I'm thinking it's unrelated, but should disclose in case it isn't...
The temperature read accurately, but there are 4 buttons:
Jets, Light, Temp Up, Temp Down.

Jets works fine, turns on the second jet pump on low, high, off.
Light does not work. I hear a click and the LED indicator comes on, but does not trigger the light.
Instead, Temp Up triggers the light on.
Temp down will adjust the temperature either way. If I push it once it raises the desired temp, twice will lower.

I don't think it is related and I can live with it as it seems to still be able to control all the functions. Just wanted to mention this in case it could be a common issue.

Thanks!

[Vinny]

I have a 2005 Artesian spa and I think it uses a Gecko controller. According to the manual the 3 flashing dots is a temperature problem or heater failure so it could be the safety thermostat has tripped or the controlling thermostat is having an issue. This is assuming that you have enough flow going to the heater.  Are you sure you have a strong enough flow from the circ pump? Are you sure you put the pressure switch in correctly? When you get the error, have you ohmed out the switch to see if it is indeed tripped? If the switch is normally open - is there a way that you can simulate it or if normally closed the same. I assume that the pressure switch is a on/off switch and not a switch that reads fluctuating ohms - if you kept the meter on the switch and it gets to temp - do you see it blip open or close to cause the controller to error? You said you took the filters out and the problem didn't go away - did you reset the tub, let the water heat without the filters in and see how it goes?

Most circ pumps run 24/7 vs tubs without circ pumps. Some tubs also have their main pump come on low for a little bit to help filter the water even with a circ pump. I bought my tub with the circ pump option and it can control the ozone time which I haven't used in years but the pump is not controllable.

[scitaly89]

Hi there,
Thanks for your reply!

I think I have enough flow to the heater, but not sure how to tell for certain. It will heat fine to whatever temp I set and then only error put after that, so yea it could be not enough flow but would it just not heat at all then?
How can I test if there's enough flow? It's a 1/15hp motor on the circ pump.

Yes I'm pretty sure te pressure switch is in correctly. It's just the simple screw in one that goes into the heater tube, plugs into the board, has an adjustable screw on top to change sensitivity. Before installing a new one I did try and adjust the sensitivity on the old with no success. I'm told they come factory calibrated so haven't adjusted the new one, I'm now pretty sure I didn't need to replace the pressure switch because I have experienced nothing differently after having the new one.

I don't have a volt meter to test the switch like you've suggested. I can get one to test. What will it tell me, am I just looking for continuity? Just tonight I did try to jump the switch on the board (put the two pins together with a paperclip) and it didn't help. Instead a red LED came on in error on the PCB so I went back to just plugging it and it reset like usual.

I'm tempted to try and configure a timer that would mimic my action of unplugging the pressure switch and replugging it in to avoid freezing and having to replace more, because that seems to work. Not sure how I'd do it yet but I'm still quite stumped by this.

[Vinny]

Hi there,
Thanks for your reply!

I think I have enough flow to the heater, but not sure how to tell for certain. It will heat fine to whatever temp I set and then only error put after that, so yea it could be not enough flow but would it just not heat at all then?
How can I test if there's enough flow? It's a 1/15hp motor on the circ pump. I don't know the "official" way but my circ pump has bubbles that go across the tub from the the opening, you should feel some kind of flow.[/size]

Yes I'm pretty sure te pressure switch is in correctly. It's just the simple screw in one that goes into the heater tube, plugs into the board, has an adjustable screw on top to change sensitivity. Before installing a new one I did try and adjust the sensitivity on the old with no success. I'm told they come factory calibrated so haven't adjusted the new one, I'm now pretty sure I didn't need to replace the pressure switch because I have experienced nothing differently after having the new one.

I don't have a volt meter to test the switch like you've suggested. I can get one to test. What will it tell me, am I just looking for continuity? By pressure switch I am assuming it's a sail switch, so yes you're looking at continuity while you have flow. I was suggesting that if at the end of the heating cycle the flow stops a little, the switch opens for a moment due to something (pump slows for a bit) and the error appears. You would need a meter that can record high and low resistance. Just tonight I did try to jump the switch on the board (put the two pins together with a paperclip) and it didn't help. Instead a red LED came on in error on the PCB so I went back to just plugging it and it reset like usual. Interesting - I wonder if the switch has a resistor in it for the board to tell the difference between a short and flow. Of course the switch could open up when it senses flow and short when there's no flow.

I'm tempted to try and configure a timer that would mimic my action of unplugging the pressure switch and replugging it in to avoid freezing and having to replace more, because that seems to work. Not sure how I'd do it yet but I'm still quite stumped by this.

Bold didn't work for some reason so I made my responses in a larger font. To test the switch can you take it out and press on the switch/membrane to see how it works - is it on/off or has resistance that fluctuates. It is possible that there is an electronic glitch happening on the board such as a relay (heater or other pump) sticking or bouncing that is causing the error.

[Spa01]

One possibility. Is the heater element all corroded. It maybe generating to much heat when it reaches 102 and tells something to trip a code. Mine was so bad if it was cold it wold heat once it got warm it would trip my breaker which is of course worst case.

[Pmgerrard]

Hi.. did you get this sorted... mine has started doing exactly the same issue as you described in your first comment

[cranbiz]

It's best to start your own thread. Many of our experts don't look thru old threads.

It wouldn't hurt to post pictures of your spa pack insides with the wiring diagram and of the equipment area.