forgetting used going to buy new need advice

[ricket]

i have decided to buy a new hot tub after looking at used ones and the info i got off this forum,i would like to thank everyone for their advice, now i have decided to buy a new one and need some advice on these units,found these tubs on the walmart web the image 631 for 4736.00 shiped & ozonator the weider sierra for 4256.00 ozo & ship and the stores i went to in my area had these that interested me,the marquis 530 4999.00, cabarat vita 8499.00,the jacuzzi j 360 7049.00 the other store had these:dynastyspas the lancelot 5795.00 and  l a spa  i know these price ranges seem far apart tahts why i am here for advice from all of you experienced tub owners  thanks in advance

[wmccall]

Count me as a satisfied Dynasty owner, I have a friend who is a happy Vita Nuage owner.  Personally I wouldn't buy a spa from Walmart, but that is because I prefer a dealer and I deal with Walmart in my current job.

[Electro]

Anyone who buys from Walmart will get the mediocre cheap junk they deserve.  Let'um do it.  When it fails or doesn't work, they can stand in line and get their money back.

The curious thing is that typical Walmart custmers do not even realize the junk is junk.  It's all they know.

[chaz]

I would agree and stay away from any of the big box stores.  A dealer is critical and this is something you don't want to go on the cheap if you can afford quality.  That does not mean you need all sorts of bells and whistles.  There have been many listings here about the top manufactrers.  Do some solid research based on what is available in your area, then if you come back here with specific questions about certain spas you will find people here that can help more.

Good luck and don't rush into it blindly.

[empolgation]

There is nothing wrong with choosing to buy from a "big box store". Choosing to do so means a different kind of ownership experience when something goes wrong.  

The reason those spas are generally a lot less expensive is because there is no dealer mark-up and limited, if any, warranty. Therefore you get no dealer to "help" you in times of need and there is a risk of paying more out-of-pocket for service that could otherwise be covered under a "big brand dealer store" warranty, provided the problem arises within the granted warranty period paid for.

Another big difference is that you generally can not wet test a "big box store" tub. As pretty much every aficionado on this forum, and others, will tell you, wet testing often times is the most important and deciding factor in choosing a tub. Then again, some don't care to wet test (my neighbor just got his $6000 tub delivered from the Marquis dealer without even sitting in it dry).

Everybody who sells or buys a "big brand dealer tub" love their tubs with good reason, but don't let them scare you off from other options that may work for you. Either route you choose, you need to know what you are choosing and paying for before making a choice.

[ZzTop]

This is a Repost


The "DEALER"

When buying a Hot Tub the DEALER can make all the difference.

After the Sale you will need advice on how to treat your water to get the right balance.  
Your Dealer should be able to test your water and tell you exactly what chemicals and proportions you need to properly balance your water.

You should check your water yourself daily for Ph and Sanitizer levels, (especially if you are new at it or your tub has had a heavy bather load), and have your water checked by taking a water sample to your Dealer monthly.

This is a service that is available to you by your Dealer free of charge.  (At least it is with Beachcomber Dealers.)
This is one reason it is nice to have a Dealer close by.

I have no idea how people who buy hot tubs from Big Box Retailers or off the Internet, test their water for hardness and alkalinity without the help of the sophisticated testing equipment that the Dealer has.

I cannot stress how important it is to keep your water correctly balanced.  Water that does not maintain the correct hardness and alkalinity can seriously damage your heater and hot tub and may even invalidate your warranty.  Of course the other reason is that having the correct amount of sanitizer is critically important to your health.

Note: Do not rely on an Ozinator alone.  Some sanitizer is always needed to maintain safe water.  The advantage of ozination is that less (chemical) that is sanitizer (chlorine or bromine), is needed to handle the bacterial load.

Most test kits only test for Ph and Sanitizer level not Alkailinity and Water hardness (Calcium), never mind TDS (total dissolved solids}, iron, copper, clarity and algae.

If you have installation questions, your Dealer should be able to advise you.  ie:  Foundation, electrical requirements, wire sizing, amperage of the GFI, and delivery.

Delivery;   It is best to contract the Dealer to deliver and set up..  Hot Tubs weigh between 500 to 800 lbs.  If there is any damage to the Hot Tub, it will be his problem, not yours.  There can be a real challenge in getting your tub to where you want it.  It may involve a crane or the removal of a fence or other obstacles.

Electrical:  Generally it is best to have your Electrician wire and connect your Hot Tub after installation so that he knows the exact location to wire to.  You may also want a 120 V GFI outlet to run peripherals such as a stereo or TV.

Start up can sometimes be problematic and it is nice to rely on your Dealer for information and help.  The Dealer should come out to advise you on water balancing and general operating questions.

Warranty Service; Your Dealer should be there for you for the entire warranty period and long after.

Tip:  After you become familiar with water care, buy your chemicals in the largest sizes available.  It is generally cheaper to buy in large sizes.

This all adds up to peace of mind in the Total Ownership Equation of owning and operating a Spa.

Happy Tubbing,


Regards Zz


:)No I am not a Dealer!  Just a happy Beachcomber owner [/color]

[Electro]

ZzTop,

So far, my dealer has offered me none of the help that you rightly mention he should have.  My tub has been operational since the June 23.

I purchased two test kits that test TA and hardness - one from Walmart for $15 and the Taylor kit that tests lots of things for $40.

I did my own electrical and have researched and found out everything I needed so far.  In fact, I found my dealer incompentent on some issues that I specifically asked.

I hope he'll be there for any necessary warranty work.

My point is that there are truly bad dealers out there.  I did not find out until after the sale.  But, I'm making the best of it.

Electro

[doodoo]

Again the bad dealer.  

My dealer is about 5KM from my house. I get the water tested there about once every two weeks for both the spa and the pool. He does this at no charge and answers all questions and also explains what he is recommending I do so that I also understand rather than just say 'my dealer told me to do this'.  I did get strips with my kit but I never use them.

[johnnythunders]

Why don't you use the strips,I am thinking af getting the Taylor test kit.My friend only uses his spa in the summer and uses Shock for pools and never uses anything else.He has not had any problems with the spa he bought from Homedepot.Since hes moving hes thinking of leaving it because hes afraid it might fall apart since its outside in all types of weather for the last few years........ :-*Jt

[tony]

johnnythunders

What type of shock for pools is your friend using?  I ask because I am experimenting with liquid pool shock (sodium hypochlorite aka bleach) to shock with rather than dichlor or mps.  It is unstabilized so no CYA and no TDS.  The downside is the pH is 13, but my pH tends to drift downward anyways and there does not seem to be any pH swing from using it.

Strips are ok for chlorine testing, but nowhere near as good as a test kit for pH and TA.  Has anyone tried the titration chlorine test yet?  It is supposed to be very accurate.

[ZzTop]

johnnythunders

What type of shock for pools is your friend using?  I ask because I am experimenting with liquid pool shock (sodium hypochlorite aka bleach) to shock with rather than dichlor or mps.  It is unstabilized so no CYA and no TDS.  The downside is the pH is 13, but my pH tends to drift downward anyways and there does not seem to be any pH swing from using it.

Be carefull
Pool chemicals are not designed for Spas
They can do damage .
Use only chemicals that are MADE FOR SPAS!

[johnnythunders]

ZZtop is right don't use pool chems in spas.
My friend is useing HTH for pools,he only uses the spa in the summer and never in the winter.I told him you will have problems useing it and he says no problems as of yet.........Jt

[tony]

I agree.  Some pool chemicals cannot be used in a spa, but there is no perfect chlorine...they all have their up and down sides.  Dichlor is the most pH neutral (slightly acidic) and quick dissolving which makes it good for spas, but contains the most stabilizer of any chlorine which is not needed in a spa.  CYA builds up fast which causes a need for increased free chlorine amounts to get the same sanitation effectiveness.  Dichlor is a pool sanitizer also.  Non chlorine shock adds to MPS and does not superchlorinate.  Lithium contains no stabilizer, has a slightly high pH, is quick dissolving, but contains lots of extra stuff and contributes to TDS.  Cal Hypo adds calcium and of course trichlor is stabilized and very acidic...very bad for spa.  So I have been using dichlor for my normal dose and trying the sodium hypochlorite to shock.