New Bullfrog Tub Install Questions

[kingdarb]

Heya Folks,

This is my first post here. 

My wife and I just ordered a Bullfrog R6 tub (it is a new model not on the site yet - has four seats instead of two seats and a lounger - comes with three jetpacks).  I wanted to ask a question of people who know more that I do about this stuff so that I can get the pre-delivery prep work done. 

I am a little unsure what I want to do as a base.  I am thinking of either pouring a concrete pad and building a deck around the tub once it is in place, or alternatively building a deck to put the tub on itself.  It might be overkill, but if I put the tub on the deck I am thinking of putting it on top of 9 10" piers directly underneath the tub which will go down below the frost line.  If I do the slab, then I will likely do 6" poured concrete with rebar re-inforcement over top of 4" of compacted stone.  My yard is also very un-level from side to side, so if I do a poured pad it will be slightly above ground level in some areas and several inches above ground level in others due to the slope, so perhaps the piers would be more secure.  I have also read about these EZ pad things, but considering that I will be doing the prep work myself, it doesn't seem like I would be saving much time or money doing the EZ pad vs doing a poured slab.

Does anyone have a recommendation as to which of these options is best based on their experience?

Thanks!

[pieceofwork]

I've built a lot of decks, and poured a lot of concrete. Done properly both are a lot of work! Here's my 2 cents: Quality concrete work requires a pretty high level of experience and skill.  You only get one chance to get it right and the prep work isn't easy either.  Building a deck is also a lot of work, but using construction fasteners and screws you can usually 'undo' a mistake. You can also take your time building a deck. But once concrete is ready to pour you don't get any do-overs. The EZ pad's appeal to me is that after adding gravel and tamping/leveling you can install the EZ Pad.  No need for building forms, laying and tying rebar, pouring, troweling, wetting, etc, etc. I can't answer your question about the supporting structure for the deck. I can say that I had a HS Grandee sitting on my deck and my sister had hers recessed into the deck. Based upon service needs, I would never recess a tub in a deck unless there was some way to allow for easy service access.

[Sam]

Both options would work fine and may even be a bit overkill.  A 4" thick pad is definitely sufficient.  Hell, you can even just do a crushed rock base and build a wood perimeter to keep the gravel from washing out.  I recommend using 3/4" to 1" sized rock.  Smaller stuff like pea-gravel doesn't work as well and it's more viscous.

Grats on the purchase by the way.  I really like that new model and can't wait to get one for our showroom.

[flava flav]

Yea boyeee congrats. Falva just poured a concrete slab for his tub.  4" of 4000psi concrete with 1 layer of wire mesh (rebar is over kill, and have heard of problems with fiber concrete) on top of 3" of 3/4 crushed stone.  The ground is slightly sloped, it's 1" below the top of the slab on one side and at the bottom of the slab on the other.  Once the tub is delivered I will add some soil on the lower side.  That sucker is going no where!!!!  It's a lot of weight but spread out over a slab way less then .6 pound per square inch.  My posse are structural engineers.   I'd don't have much experience with the EZ pad, concrete is the best solution but more labor intensive(stats it in most owners manuals).   Take care in curing the concrete, don't let it dry out for the first few days or pour when it's too hot.

No reason to put the pad on piers below the frost line, let it move.  Lots lots lots of extra work for no good reason.  Even if you overbuild the deck over the pad just let it all move, it's not a house. 

Make the slab a hair bigger than the tub.  Install the piers for the deck outside the slab below the frostline if you decide to do a deck.  You will save concrete that will end up below the deck anyway.  Take the fill from the high side and place it on the low side, any more than that you will need a retaining wall.  Don't want the crushed stone base exposed to wash out
 
Might need to get creative for a solution to make the access panel accessible for maintenance.

Good luck boyeeee

[Hot Tub Lady]

I was debating between concrete and EZ Pad too and decided to go the EZ Pad route.

I have had my tub for about a year now and have had no problems with the EZ Pad. They are quality built and go together easily.It went through a harsh snowy winter without problems.

I layed down 1/2 inch pea stone and then put the pad on top and leveled it. I went the pad route and not directly on pea stone as I wanted a solid contact between the pad and the base of the hot tub so that no mice would get into the base of the tub.

They can be easily cut with a circular saw if you want a different configuration. I just sealed the end that I cut with canned insulation foam.

 One nice thing about the Pad is that when my hot tub is unfilled I can easily slide it around if I want to access the panels or want a different view! Can't do that on concrete, only on plastic EZ Pads.

[Jacuzzi Jim]

Both options would work fine and may even be a bit overkill.  A 4" thick pad is definitely sufficient.  Hell, you can even just do a crushed rock base and build a wood perimeter to keep the gravel from washing out.  I recommend using 3/4" to 1" sized rock.  Smaller stuff like pea-gravel doesn't work as well and it's more viscous.

Grats on the purchase by the way.  I really like that new model and can't wait to get one for our showroom.

  Same with us, I heard they were available, just have not ordered one in yet..