Chemicals ate away at surface - sandpaper feel now

[Turtle0796]

 Ok, bear with me. Pulling my hair out trying to find info on how to "fix" the surface in my hot tub /spa. Didn't use hot tub for a couple of months. Cleaned , drained and refilled spa (we have city water). After a week or two, I took a sample to my local pool store to see what chemicals I needed. A (new) kid there ( ugh, I know) ran the sample thru the computer and spit out a grocery list of what I needed. In all honesty I've been going to them since I got the hot tub and have never had an issue. BUT, this time it seemed like WAY TOO MUCH needed. I even questioned it. Said it would cost me a small fortune to put all that in "fresh" water. We agreed to only do 1/3 of it and come back in a few days to see results.

 Well, life happens and I didn't get back there. 2 weeks go by. My step daughter used the hot tub with her friend but never told me of any problems. My wife and I use it a few days later and from the water line down the WHOLE surface has an etched feeling, like rough sand paper. No more slipping and sliding trying to stay in one spot, LOL !! We stayed in it for a couple of cycles, got out & showered (like normal). Didn't have any skin irritations or anything like that.

 Not comfortable with it being like that, I scrubbed it down again, after draining it. And that's how it sits now. When draining it I did notice "flakes" , I presume from the coating on the bottom of the spa. I should have gone back to talk to them ( I still have the print out of what & how much chemicals it was calling for) and I wrote down how much I actually put in. Just still really pissed about it.

 ANYWAYS, I just would like to know if there's a way I can fix it. I've tried googling answers. I am not opposed to sanding it down and resurfacing it, if that's what it will take.
Please help !!
 
 

[Turtle0796]

It's a Leisure Bay 8'x8' hot tub. Probably 8 years old. I traded it from a friend. Wasn't working when I first got it. I've probably put  $500 in it over the past couple of years. Would hate to get rid of it. It's become part of the family. Hahaha.

 The surface is a light blue textured finish. Not the smooth type that's out on the market now.

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

What exactly did you put in the water? It sounds more likely that you have mineral deposits on the surface of the spa.

[Turtle0796]

I had my wife dig out the copy of the printout from the pool supply store. Just as I thought, the kid entered our pool dimensions into our hot tub dimensions. So it called for 4 lbs Spa Total Alkalinity, 1 qt Chlorine Free Oxidizer, 1 lb Quick Shot Bromine Booster & 1 bottle Calcium Booster.
 Again, I couldn't afford all those chemicals , so I was only able to put in (2) 1 qt bottles of Alkalinity, 1 qt oxidizer, 1 small bottle Bromine booster and 1 bottle calcium booster. I can def see where this is way too much for only 1133 gal hot tub.

[TwinCitiesHotSpring]

it sounds like calcium deposit(s) to me... if its past the point of being able to simply "wipe it off" with a rag...your going to need a solution of acid/water to clean it off...I have plenty of experience with this, if you continue to let it "build up" it will get to the point of needing a 100% non diluted acid "wash" which of course is the last possible thing you want to do with an acrylic spa.  Once you get this mess cleaned up I would recommend filling with soft water from this point forward, if you do not have soft water in your house you could purchase a small portable water softener for around $200-$300...see here: http://www.portablewatersoftener.com/

[Turtle0796]

Would a diluted muriatic acid wash do the trick ?

 I still think it feels like the clear coat was etched away. I actually cut took a layer of skin off my finger rubbing it against the surface.

[TwinCitiesHotSpring]

Would a diluted muriatic acid wash do the trick ?

 I still think it feels like the clear coat was etched away. I actually cut took a layer of skin off my finger rubbing it against the surface.

yes that is what I have used in the past, just remember always add Acid into water and not the other way around to avoid a chemical reaction.  As far as mixture obviously start "light" with the acid and try a small test area, if the deposits don't seem to be coming off you'll have to up the dosage.  Just remember in the future...soft water, soft water, soft water :-)

[Chas]

I have run into this countless times, and the answer has always been the same: Do NOT drain and acid wash the spa. Why? because:
1.It's dangerous. The fumes can kill you.
2.It doesn't work: it only cleans out the inside of the tub - which seems fine, but what about the plumbing and the heater?

Leave the water in the tub. You precipitated the calcium out of the water, let's put it right back where it came from.

How?

Add "Spa Down." That is a Leisure Time brand product, but it is simply dry acid. You can add any type of dry acid. I would not add more than 3 ounces at a time, and I would not retest for at least 6 hours. Test daily for several days, adding another 3 ounces if the pH and TA are not just below the "OK" range, which is 7.4pH and around 80 -100 TA.

Keep the levels down for several days, and vac out any calcium which drops to the floor of the tub. A lot should drop. If you want to, you can acid wash the filter to keep things flowing, but it is not a must.

If you have already drained the spa, I'm very sorry - now you may very well have to acid wash the tub. But keep in mind that you will NOT be able to clean out the plumbing nor de-calcify the heater and/or circ pump with acid. Don't try. Just get rid of the surface calcium, drain all the acid and 'sand' out of the tub, refill, and run the pH and TA a bit low for a week or two.

HTH

 

[Turtle0796]

Thank you all !! Guess I know what I'll be doing on my 2 days off , lol !
I'm a Firefighter and have dealt w/ muriatic acid plenty of times. Thank god the hot tub is outside w/ plenty of ventilation. Hehe

[TwinCitiesHotSpring]

I have run into this countless times, and the answer has always been the same: Do NOT drain and acid wash the spa. Why? because:
1.It's dangerous. The fumes can kill you.
2.It doesn't work: it only cleans out the inside of the tub - which seems fine, but what about the plumbing and the heater?

Leave the water in the tub. You precipitated the calcium out of the water, let's put it right back where it came from.

How?

Add "Spa Down." That is a Leisure Time brand product, but it is simply dry acid. You can add any type of dry acid. I would not add more than 3 ounces at a time, and I would not retest for at least 6 hours. Test daily for several days, adding another 3 ounces if the pH and TA are not just below the "OK" range, which is 7.4pH and around 80 -100 TA.

Keep the levels down for several days, and vac out any calcium which drops to the floor of the tub. A lot should drop. If you want to, you can acid wash the filter to keep things flowing, but it is not a must.

If you have already drained the spa, I'm very sorry - now you may very well have to acid wash the tub. But keep in mind that you will NOT be able to clean out the plumbing nor de-calcify the heater and/or circ pump with acid. Don't try. Just get rid of the surface calcium, drain all the acid and 'sand' out of the tub, refill, and run the pH and TA a bit low for a week or two.

HTH

 

depending on water conditions in a customers specific area and exactly how bad the "buildup" is you could be waiting awhile...a light acid bath by hand can be much quicker and at the end of the day whats the difference? either your adding a ton of spa down to make the water acidic, or your manually using a rag with a light acid wash to clean it, pretty much the same thing....bottom line is you need an acidic solution to clean it...if you wanna take weeks and try to lower it, test it, lower it, test it..that's fine but you could drain it and clean it much quicker by hand, fill it then keep levels lower to purge any additional calcium.  I've done it dozens upon dozens of times, there's always more than one way to skin a cat 

[Spatech_tuo]

I have run into this countless times, and the answer has always been the same: Do NOT drain and acid wash the spa. Why? because:
1.It's dangerous. The fumes can kill you.
2.It doesn't work: it only cleans out the inside of the tub - which seems fine, but what about the plumbing and the heater?

Leave the water in the tub. You precipitated the calcium out of the water, let's put it right back where it came from.

How?

Add "Spa Down." That is a Leisure Time brand product, but it is simply dry acid. You can add any type of dry acid. I would not add more than 3 ounces at a time, and I would not retest for at least 6 hours. Test daily for several days, adding another 3 ounces if the pH and TA are not just below the "OK" range, which is 7.4pH and around 80 -100 TA.

Keep the levels down for several days, and vac out any calcium which drops to the floor of the tub. A lot should drop. If you want to, you can acid wash the filter to keep things flowing, but it is not a must.

If you have already drained the spa, I'm very sorry - now you may very well have to acid wash the tub. But keep in mind that you will NOT be able to clean out the plumbing nor de-calcify the heater and/or circ pump with acid. Don't try. Just get rid of the surface calcium, drain all the acid and 'sand' out of the tub, refill, and run the pH and TA a bit low for a week or two.

HTH

 

depending on water conditions in a customers specific area and exactly how bad the "buildup" is you could be waiting awhile...a light acid bath by hand can be much quicker and at the end of the day whats the difference? either your adding a ton of spa down to make the water acidic, or your manually using a rag with a light acid wash to clean it, pretty much the same thing....bottom line is you need an acidic solution to clean it...if you wanna take weeks and try to lower it, test it, lower it, test it..that's fine but you could drain it and clean it much quicker by hand, fill it then keep levels lower to purge any additional calcium.  I've done it dozens upon dozens of times, there's always more than one way to skin a cat 

Chas' method will take longer but it will address the entire issue which is not only the shell surface but also the plumbing, the heater, pumps...

[Tman122]

I have run into this countless times, and the answer has always been the same: Do NOT drain and acid wash the spa. Why? because:
1.It's dangerous. The fumes can kill you.
2.It doesn't work: it only cleans out the inside of the tub - which seems fine, but what about the plumbing and the heater?

Leave the water in the tub. You precipitated the calcium out of the water, let's put it right back where it came from.

How?

Add "Spa Down." That is a Leisure Time brand product, but it is simply dry acid. You can add any type of dry acid. I would not add more than 3 ounces at a time, and I would not retest for at least 6 hours. Test daily for several days, adding another 3 ounces if the pH and TA are not just below the "OK" range, which is 7.4pH and around 80 -100 TA.

Keep the levels down for several days, and vac out any calcium which drops to the floor of the tub. A lot should drop. If you want to, you can acid wash the filter to keep things flowing, but it is not a must.

If you have already drained the spa, I'm very sorry - now you may very well have to acid wash the tub. But keep in mind that you will NOT be able to clean out the plumbing nor de-calcify the heater and/or circ pump with acid. Don't try. Just get rid of the surface calcium, drain all the acid and 'sand' out of the tub, refill, and run the pH and TA a bit low for a week or two.

HTH

 

depending on water conditions in a customers specific area and exactly how bad the "buildup" is you could be waiting awhile...a light acid bath by hand can be much quicker and at the end of the day whats the difference? either your adding a ton of spa down to make the water acidic, or your manually using a rag with a light acid wash to clean it, pretty much the same thing....bottom line is you need an acidic solution to clean it...if you wanna take weeks and try to lower it, test it, lower it, test it..that's fine but you could drain it and clean it much quicker by hand, fill it then keep levels lower to purge any additional calcium.  I've done it dozens upon dozens of times, there's always more than one way to skin a cat 

Chas' method will take longer but it will address the entire issue which is not only the shell surface but also the plumbing, the heater, pumps...

Yes but on the next fill you could run the PH/TA low and work on the plumbing.

[Sam]

I had my wife dig out the copy of the printout from the pool supply store. Just as I thought, the kid entered our pool dimensions into our hot tub dimensions. So it called for 4 lbs Spa Total Alkalinity, 1 qt Chlorine Free Oxidizer, 1 lb Quick Shot Bromine Booster & 1 bottle Calcium Booster.
 Again, I couldn't afford all those chemicals , so I was only able to put in (2) 1 qt bottles of Alkalinity, 1 qt oxidizer, 1 small bottle Bromine booster and 1 bottle calcium booster. I can def see where this is way too much for only 1133 gal hot tub.

This is why you are having issues.  This is a massive dose that increased your alkalinity and calcium hardness to the point that it precipitated out of the water and deposited on the surface.  You should definitely follow Chas' advice.  Lower the PH below normal levels and the deposits should dissolve.  A sequestering agent may help as well, often called stain and scale control.  What you are seeing is scale.

Depending on how old the water is, you may want to do a system flush and drain and refill after lower the levels for a couple of days.

I would also request these products for free from the pool and spa place.  They screwed up here.

[Tman122]

I would also request these products for free from the pool and spa place.  They screwed up here.

Good advice Sam.