what's the proper way to test the voltage to the heater element

[jayk2k3]

what's the proper way to test 240 voltage to the heater element with a multimeter?

1. place one probe on one of the element terminals (positive). the second probe on the heater terminal housing (ground).

or do I

2. connect one probe to one terminal and the other to the other terminal?

is it always power to ground or can it be power to power?

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

#2 is the only correct way.

[DaveMc]

My opinion--ready for critic's!

On 240 ---you have 2 hot's and a ground.
So red-hot, black -hot and green ground
If you meter it -
--either hot (red or black) to ground should be 120--Hot to hot should be 240
It should not make any difference whether you connect or disconnect the feeder wires from the spa control panel connection points (terminals)
BUT
If you test the wires coming from the spa disconnect/GFCI panel while NOT terminated to the spa control panel---and they test ok---you will eliminate the feeder wires as part of a problem.
Then if you connect to the spa control panel terminations and then test the heater--if there is a problem --then it is between the terminals in the spa control panel and the heater.---A process of eliminating variables.

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

[DaveMc]

I think I said that.--some of the diagrams are very helpful and some of the diagrams are confusing---when compared to other diagrams---like one and 5 --the second meter could be reading 110 as you show in sk 4...

I think the bottom line is that if 110 is getting to each leg of the heater and you are getting 220 between legs and the heater  doesn't work--get a new heater--or have some one test it that is qualified.

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

The OP asked, "what's the proper way to test 240 voltage to the heater element with a multimeter". My diagram explains it EXACTLY (diagram #5 indicates a break in the black hot leg, hence there's NO WAY the second meter can read 110). If you don't understand it or are confused, as you say, "have some one test it that is qualified"

[Tman122]

There are calculations for testing heaters using the resistance setting on your tester also. But they vary greatly by manufacturer so you have to have values going in. Test a new heater coil of the same model/manufac is the best way. Not a lot of people have new coils laying around unless you have a busy dealer with techs. Test all voltages first as said. How old is the heater? What brand?

[DaveMc]

No need to get excited Doc!
I think you proved my point---the confusing part---as sk 5 shows the second meter to ground and to black--it should read 110 but it doesn't because as you say there is a break in the black route from the main.  HOWEVER--You show the SAME configuration in sk 4--but in that sk you see 110 on the meter---and you say it is feeding THRU the heater--which it could be
SO--sk4 meter and sk5-second meter are testing the exact same points---YET they are reading differently--hence---CONFUSING!

----when a novice is testing he does not have your assumptions printed out---he only has a meter reading---
So--I would test the leads un connected and then again connected---we need to eliminate the route from the main to the control panel first---

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

#4 shows electricity flowing through the element, which it WILL. #5 shows the wires disconnected from the element, and the black line voltage wie not being fed power. The images ARE correct....the image reader is not ;-)

[DaveMc]

I would maintain that if it is beyond your expertise------go to an electrical forum for advice-----or an electrical expert---both sources know more than WE do about electricity---you spent 35 years in hot tubs and know a little each facet as it relates to the industry and we all are happy that you share that info---------I spent 45 years in tenant improvement---where one deals with ALL trades and learns quite a lot with respect to each---so I am not your average dummy ------If your diagrams need explanations then they are confusing---I am not going to continue to argue the minutia with you---You are the same guy that swore to me that I couldn't use a #8 ground (along with 3#4's) from my service to the spa GFCI---which was not true and then you would not explain or back up your opinion---you went silent..
I rest my case---

[Dr. Spa™ Ret.]

And I'll maintain that if you don't understand the pictures and explanations beneath, you should seek professional help, as you don't have the basic understanding of electricity and risk killing not only yourself, but others that may be invited into your hot tub.

[DaveMc]

You are too excitable to be of help here

[Hot Spring Ace]

I like the diagrams because I'm a visual person. They're very easy to read and understand.

[SerjicalStrike]

It seems Dr. Spa is correct in all the posts on this thread.  The pictures are very nice and straightforward.  Not sure where the confusion is. 

[rosewoodsteel]

Thanks, Doc.    The only thing confusing is why anyone would find your diagrams confusing.   I am confused.