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Author Topic: 2010-ish sundance optima  (Read 2067 times)

trap4x4

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2010-ish sundance optima
« on: May 06, 2014, 08:57:16 pm »
Hi guys ... new to me sundance owner... couple Q's. Does the control panel have a setting/option to make the display brighter for day viewing?
 Does the Weir gate free float? Can/should it be closed/up?
Heater has a minute leak at the bottom. seems to be coming from where the case comes together - is it worth while opening it up - are they like a rad, or are they unserviceable?

Thanks

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2010-ish sundance optima
« on: May 06, 2014, 08:57:16 pm »

Tman122

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Re: 2010-ish sundance optima
« Reply #1 on: May 06, 2014, 09:29:54 pm »
Likely unserviceable. But the labor savings is offsetting. Plug and play. Maybe you can JB weld it or epoxy? Take it out dry it good and see whats up. Use a marker to mark where it's leaking.
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clover

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Re: 2010-ish sundance optima
« Reply #2 on: May 07, 2014, 02:29:14 pm »
The display has only one visual setting.

The weir gate floats free and should stay at the water level.  When the pump is on, it will drop down and water should cascade over it.  When the pump turns off, the weir gate should automatically rise to prevent any leaves, or other debris, to backflow into the spa.

The heater leak, first take some paper towel and dry up where you see it leaking and with a bright light observe "where" the water first appears.  Two options, the front of the heater that you can see, and the back of what you can not see.  If you see the water, as it first appears, coming from the seam, this is serviceable.

However, the first question would be how long has it been leaking.  It is uncommon for the heater to leak, unless you have had a freeze occurrence.  IF the leak can not be seen on the front, it could be coming from a freeze crack on the backside.

Either way, remove the heater removing the 2 nuts and washers; disconnect the black and red wires, and carefully removing the hi-limit sensor in the dry well at the top of the heater during the removal process.  This can be done with water in the spa IF you "clamp" the hose coming from the circ pump, and the hose coming out of the top of the heater with vice-grips.  Observe inside the heater to see 8 to 10 screws holding the parts together.  There is a thin metal plate with a stem attached to it that will pullout. 

There is an o-ring that could be leaking (not likely), but if it is coming from the seam of the 2 parts, apply a bead of silicone around the perimeter and reinstall, allowing time to cure prior to putting water under pressure once again.

If this fails, you may have a "hairline" crack that IF found could be epoxied as Tman suggested if it can be discovered, a bright light helps, otherwise the heater needs to be replaced.
Trying to be the unbaised voice of reason.

trap4x4

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Re: 2010-ish sundance optima
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2014, 10:19:32 pm »
Thanks a bunch for that detailed reply .... Been watching the heater "leak"and it seems to be more of a sweat now. the spa was winterized and i had the bottom hose disconnected. Hard to tell were it originates but it would appear to be from the back and just noticeable from where it drops from the lowest point.
  The crappy display is more annoying ....

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Re: 2010-ish sundance optima
« Reply #3 on: May 07, 2014, 10:19:32 pm »

 

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