Author Topic: Belize FLO ERROR CODE (Read 13575 times)

codfishhead · « **on:** September 17, 2013, 01:37:57 pm »

I have an issue with the FLO error code. Spa Depot is telling me the pressure switch I can see isn�t replaceable. Can anyone please tell me what this switch is and where to buy one?

I have already flush the lines to insure it wasn�t an air lock. The tub starts off fine all jets and pump working. Then after the first 20 mins of running it stops and shows 3 dashes then the FLO error code. If I press the button the tub kicks on and will run and heat up for 20 mins. It doesn�t run on the slow speed just the high. Everything I�m reading tells me the Pressure switch need to be changed. Problem is SpaDepot is telling me my system doesn�t have a replaceable switch. I can see it and have already replaced the heater core. Switch is on the tube in plain sight. Can�t see a reason I can�t replace it besides maybe they don�t sell it. So I�m looking for someplace that does.

Tubs been down for a month. Could really use some help.

Thank you

Jay

Hot Tub Forum · « **on:** September 17, 2013, 01:37:57 pm »

Jacuzzi Jim · « **Reply #1 on:** September 17, 2013, 04:25:22 pm »

Call me crazy but Im not seeing a pressure switch there?? Where/what do you think it is?

goneaway · « **Reply #2 on:** September 17, 2013, 05:42:40 pm »

I'm also struggling to see a flow switch in that picture.
However, if your'e adamant that there is one, then page 76 in this manual talks about adjustment.
www.netroebuck.co.uk/SpaService2.pdf

It's not for your control panel, but it might just help.

Dr. Spa� Ret. · « **Reply #3 on:** September 17, 2013, 08:30:31 pm »

Flow switch and pressure switch are two different things.

codfishhead · « **Reply #4 on:** September 17, 2013, 09:04:35 pm »

Per the pics I sent to Spa Depot the white plastic part with the wire coming off it on the far right of the tube is the flow switch. For whatever reason they do not offer that part. Below is the reply when I aksed to buy the flow switch they pointed out from the pic. The swicth would be under 50 and the replacement pack is about 450.

This spa pack does not have a replaceable flo switch. It will require pack replacement. The EP1500 is the replacement I recommend.

I have access to a lab at work. They could mod the board if anyone knows how to by pass the switch.

codfishhead · « **Reply #5 on:** September 17, 2013, 09:16:38 pm »

Flow switch on far right white plastic part. I can't find any that look like this. Seems they went standard with the round type. This tub is around 6yrs old.

goneaway · « **Reply #6 on:** September 18, 2013, 03:18:49 am »

I've heard stories of switches getting a build up of calcium or other contaminents.
I'd be tempted to drain the tub, and at least have a good look at the switch, maybe clean it internally.
Upload some pics of the switch it's self.
Maybe it's possible to swap out the flow switch with a later (round one ) or the heater unit with one which has a later flow switch.
Something like this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Balboa-3-0KW-Heater-Pressure-Switch-/121027205861?pt=UK_Swimming_Pools_Hot_Tubs&hash=item1c2dc89ae5

hawkella · « **Reply #7 on:** September 18, 2013, 10:20:17 am »

This is not a switch it is sensor on this spa pack. It is not replaeable because there is no physical switcj just a sensor that measures temperature variance over time. I had same issue same spa pack - turned out to be bad low speef capacitor

codfishhead · « **Reply #8 on:** September 18, 2013, 03:05:27 pm »

Thank you guys. My next step is to take it out and inspect. go from there.

Anyone know if the new sensor and the old sensor send out the same signal and what that is? Any technical info on them as far as Ohms reading? Or better yet, what if I simply discount the sensor. Will it work with no signal from the sensor?
Basically looking for the easiest lowest cost fix. There�s nothing on this unit I can�t get check out from the sensor to the board. I have a bunch of Electrical engineers as well as full labs to check or test whatever. Problem is I need to give them the proper tolerance range so they know what they are looking for.

Also have access to full machine shops to modify the tube in any way to accept the newer sensor if it will work with the old board.

hawkella · « **Reply #9 on:** September 18, 2013, 03:21:20 pm »

Its not a physical thing that is in the heater tube. It is not s switch.

hawkella · « **Reply #10 on:** September 18, 2013, 03:23:16 pm »

It is a sensor that sits on the outer heater element. There is nothing inside the heater tube to replace.

codfishhead · « **Reply #11 on:** September 19, 2013, 03:46:26 pm »

What exactly does the sensor do? As in how does it send the signal? If the wires are touching or separated does that trigger the signal? If I disconnected the sensor will that eliminate the signal and make the tub work properly? Can it be bypassed or eliminated

hawkella · « **Reply #12 on:** September 19, 2013, 06:35:38 pm »

Not sure how the wiring works - sorry. Might be a safety hazard if it was bypassed

goneaway · « **Reply #13 on:** September 20, 2013, 03:01:45 am »

Or mores the point, what component is the sensor.
I doubt very much that the sensor is a proprietary trade secret, and is in fact just a standard electronic component ?

codfishhead · « **Reply #14 on:** October 04, 2013, 10:48:49 am »

Wish I knew it wasn't through the heater before I pulled the entire thing apart.

lol O well only took 5 mins.

I removed it and still same FLO Error cam back. I looked at other Flow sensors to try to replace and they don't have the same connector. Wish I knew if I could just add a jumper to the board and b pass this. But I'm guessing it needs a signal.

Here's some pics. Anyone know where I can find this or who makes them. Pat pendind and Serial number shown below.

Hot Tub Forum · « **Reply #14 on:** October 04, 2013, 10:48:49 am »

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