What goes in this spot?

[spolkyc]

I am working on a tub that is new to me.  The control panel says "coast spas" but I don't know much other then that and what is on the motor, heaters, etc name plates.  So the question is, what goes in this spot?  There are 2 dirverter valves in other spots what is in the pipe looks like them (a vertical inlet & 2 horizontal inlets) but the cap that was on the other valves does not fit.  It is too large by a small amount, the cap drops over the thread instead of threading on.  The other dirverter valve I can see in (I was able to remove) has water at about the water line of the tub but the one in question water can not be seen.  Also the shape of the spot where this plumbing comes out looks like something else should go there.  Any ideas?  THANKS!

   

What goes here?


Inside the plumbing in question




Dirverter valve before I pulled it out.  This cap does not thread on the one in question, it just drops over.

[Jacuzzi Jim]

 Best guess is a larger divertor gate?  Odd!!

[Tman122]

Maybe an aroma therapy port missing a cap.

[Chas]

I sure looks like another diverter valve. It could be for air - to divert the air from a blower to either 'supercharge' certain jets, or send the air to little bubbler outlets scattered around the tub.

HTH

[spolkyc]

Ok so it look like it is another diverter valve after all.  The power was hooked up the other day and when pump 2 was turned on that hole became a huge fountain.  Another problem is so did the others!  It looks like there is an issue with the threads or the covers I have / picked up. 

The caps thread on but just ok.  When you get them tight the cap slips, it never gets fully tight.  The threads on the pipe don't look too bad.  And I would think to hold all that pressure more thread engagement would be needed and to pop off they would have to look really bad.  Just loosing say 5% to 10% off the tip of the threads allows the cap to come off?!  The diverter valve part inside I picked up seems to correct.  Maybe the wrong cap?

[Chas]

yes, you have the wrong parts. You're right: it needs to be the exact fit or it can become a dangerous missile!

Keep safe...

 

[spolkyc]

Yep the new caps were buttress threads and the valves have v threads.  But even with a new v thread cap it only gets so tight.  I was able to avoid the missile but got a good spray today.  Thanks for the heads up Chas.  At the parts place I was able to see how a diverter valve is built.  I didn't know it could actually slide vertical in the mount to the shell.  So I am guessing the tubing has moved or shrunk a little pulling the valve and threads down.  With a bar I was able to push the valve up a little bit.  I am worried this will stress the tubing or something else and cause more leaks.  So it looks like I have 2 options.  Cut the tubing and put splices in the line (3 per valve) to give a little extra length.  Or epoxy the valve covers to the valve.

Epoxying the valves would be quick and easy but if there is a leak from an o-ring or the valve needs service the whole valve must be replaced.  Also I am unsure it will hold the pressure forever, especially because I can't check the bonded area after it sets.

Adding splices will be much harder and will make more places for potential leaks.  Also I am unsure if the whole cap thing will even work then.  But I am thinking this is the correct way to do it.

Any thoughts or better ideas??

[Chas]

Flex PVC does shrink with age, and if the plumbing in question is a short run, that shrinkage can put a lot of stress on glued joints.


 

[spolkyc]

Ok well that sounds like the plan.  The runs may be short in some spots.  I can see one that is longer but runs under the shell and is touching it / pinned.  I could see this adding stress if shortened.  I will put a coupler on and hopefully that adds the needed length.  Thanks for your help.