Question about using chemicals.

[kurt6137]

I spoke to my hot springs dealer and told them, I don't like using bromine and chlorine, they suggested just using the shock (sanitizer and oxidizer)  Use one capful (the large cap , that goes on the bottle) once a week to shock and 1 to 3 tablespoons of it after each use. There are only two of us, but occasionally will be 4. Is this ok, it seems great, because I don't get that odor and my eyes burning.  I have a ozonator on the tub. All comments appreciated, as always.

[HuMan321]

Quick reply to you before the experts chime in. Unless you have a Nature 2 stick you will need to use chlorine or bromine as your Sanitizer. If you have N2 stick you must follow the low chlorine recipe which means keeping a maintained level of MPS at all times. Not that difficult to do, but not really clear from the dealers.
The amount of MPS or whatever Sanitizer is used is totally dependant on hours of bather load (longer soak, more product) makes sense doesn't it?

Look for posts from chemgeek for specifics.

PS you should use standard measurements and not "capfuls" for consistent advice and readings.

[Spatech_tuo]

I spoke to my hot springs dealer and told them, I don't like using bromine and chlorine, they suggested just using the shock (sanitizer and oxidizer)  Use one capful (the large cap , that goes on the bottle) once a week to shock and 1 to 3 tablespoons of it after each use. There are only two of us, but occasionally will be 4. Is this ok, it seems great, because I don't get that odor and my eyes burning.  I have a ozonator on the tub. All comments appreciated, as always.

You are asking for trouble with that very misguided shock only idea, seriously. Does the chlorine in the tap water in your bath tub bother you? If not here's the deal, people always say "When I test my spa water I can get the chlorine level in the ok range on the strips but then the next day its gone". BINGO. Chlorine doesn't stay in hot water long. Add it AFTER you get out of the spa, it will sanitize and then the next time you go in the chlorine level will be similar to that in your bathtub.

[kurt6137]

Thanks Spatech, I went to the dealer today and picked chlorine, will start using that after each use, I will use the non-chlorine shock until I run out of it, then I will use the enhanced (chlorine) shock from now on, both same price. Not that chlorine or bromine bothers me that much, just trying to save some using too many chemicals, but I see your point and I would rather have safe water, than risking it. 

[clover]

"The proof is in the pudding", in this case it's in the water, and you want that to be sparkling clean and crystal clear.  Ozone is a powerful sanitizer / oxidizer, and you want your water to be clean, clear, and without any odor.  Hopefully this can be accomplished with little chemical use as long as your ozonator is producing ozone.

If you "see" the water, meaning that it is cloudy, or has a color tinge to it, OR IF you can "smell" your water, test the water and treat it accordingly.

Everybody's water is different and determined by what you "put" into the water, or "what" your body leaves behind.  When you have invited guests using the spa, add some chlorine to the water to "kill uninvited body bugs", as your ozonator does not produce ozone sanitation while you are using the spa, only after you get out.

[Sam]

"The proof is in the pudding", in this case it's in the water, and you want that to be sparkling clean and crystal clear.  Ozone is a powerful sanitizer / oxidizer........

It is my understanding that ozone is not considered a sanitizer, just an oxidizer.  Sanitizer is still required with an ozonator.   Not to nitpick, just clarifying.

[chem geek]

Technically, ozone is a disinfectant/sanitizer, but a local one and does not leave a sufficient residual in the water.  That's why it is often referred to as supplemental oxidation, but the water that passes through the ozonator (and downstream as long as ozone remains) is getting disinfected.  The problem is that without ozone in the bulk spa water, organisms on spa surfaces are not killed and can grow and there isn't sufficient prevention of transmission of disease from person-to-person.

Chlorine is a disinfectant and an oxidizer that remains in the bulk water.  Keep in mind that ozone and chlorine react with each other so an ozonator works well in heavily used residential spas when you soak every day or two, but if you only soak once or twice a week, say on weekends only, then the ozone ends up increasing chlorine demand by double or more during the week making maintenance more difficult since you can't go as long without adding more chlorine.  When the bather load is high, then the ozone can cut down chlorine consumption by half or more.

[kurt6137]

Thanks for the info guys, we do use our tub every other day and it has a ozonator, I am on the schedule of shocking it once a week, then adding 1 to 3 teaspoons of chlorine after each use, and testing my water twice a week. I will see how it goes, I am hoping with the ozonator, I can use less chemicals to keep it clean.

[clover]

Chem Geek is absolutely correct in what he says.  However, what we need to understand is the Ozonator produces / manufactures ozone molecules which are injected into the water through a mazzie injector.  Ozone, O³ originates from oxygen, O² and has a very short lifetime expectation, as its sole purpose is just like a magnetic attraction in which it "attracts a like atom" from another molecule, chlorine for instance, and then it divides into 2 molecules of O².  Thus, the reason there is no residual element remaining in the water, other than O² which is a part of water itself.

O³ is a non-discriminatory killer / oxidizer because it takes the like atom from mineral, nutrient, bacteria, virus, or any other molecular compound that is introduced into the water, i.e. chlorine, shock, etc.  IF it finds nothing in water it breaks the surface and goes airborne under the cover and you will see the underside of your cover bleaching to a lighter tone.  OR, you may see the cover wrinkling, or waffeling from chemcial gases caused by improper pH.  Your cover tells no lies.

IF in fact O³ is a killer / sanitizer, and it has a very short life cycle, there are reasons to know and understand how ozone works, and when you need chemical support.  While chemicals can be tested for their presence, ozone can not.  It dissipates rapidly and leaves no residual, other than dead matter to be filtered clean.

You can test for ozone at the injector site, and testing is recommended as the ozonator ages.  Ozonators are either Ultra Violet, or Corona Discharge, and do have a limited ability to produce ozone after 3 to 6 years varying by type and quality.  CD Ozonators provide longer service than UV lights do.

Again, ‘the proof is in the pudding” or in this case the water.  Ozone is extremely effective in the Hot Tub environment, but, both you and your service adviser must understand what it does and how it works, realizing when you introduce chemicals to the water, you are actually giving ozone something to react with.  FOCUS on the water clarity with both sight and smell, testing when you see or smell something other than clean clear water that would have an invitation to drink.

As for the confusion of ozone vs. chemicals, you must understand how they both work and recognize there is a purpose, as well as a cost, in having the ozonator installed.  They have been in use on Hot Tubs since the late 80’s with great opposition, and reluctance to understand how it works, commonly causing industry advisers to rely mostly on chemicals that you can “test for”. 

Here I will only ask for common sense to apply, as you consider what you pay for ozone and what you pay for chemicals.  One is acquired in the initial cost of the ozonator producing ozone free of cost until it expires, while chemical will be continually consumed and even “eaten” by O³ as it takes a like atom from the chemical compound as well.

Chemical are a source of aftermarket sales, while ozone just keeps working without you.

[chem geek]

For a lot more factual info on ozone see Chemistries of Ozone for Municipal Pool and Spa Water Treatment.  Ozone is reasonably powerful, but it doesn't react with everything.  It reacts very slowly with ammonia, for example, something that chlorine reacts very quickly with.  When ozone breaks down, it creates hydroxyl radicals and these are very powerful, though very short-lived, oxidizers.  The main reason that ozone isn't used as a bulk-water disinfectant is that it can outgas and ozone in the air is an airway irritant (and EPA regulated).