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Where can you find 5 lb's of dichlor for $12? That seems unbelievably low to me
I am reading these posts with great interest - we purchased a 190 gallon 110volt tub in September - along with all the Diamond products - have had rashes/itching since. It does have an ozonator built in to it - what we were doing is using Bromine tabs in a floater (keeping it full and floating unless we were in it) then using two capfuls of a product called Spa Shock each day when we get out of the tub from soaking - then we were told to put 1/2 packet of spa frog in once a week - ( we have ph up and down - alk up, foam be gone, sani start.........the pool place has had us trying everything to get it right ) - we test and it looks close to the colors - but we are still rashy and itchy. I was trying to come up with a plan that would be for a 190 gallon tub - what to use each day, week...... it is only two adults (and we shower before and after) I am ready to give up - but I love the tub so much. ZThe water looks clear and doesn't smell bad, just a little like the bromine. Are we using too much? too little? is there something we can try? help please.......
I was thinking it sounded like alot of stuff myself - we liked going in every day and would usually stay in for 30 minutes - we shower before and after getting in the tub - we have been using the test strips and it is really hard to judge the colors (they all look so close) I wanted to get a better test kit - but was waiting till I was sure what chemicals we were going to use because someone told me that there are several ones and you have to get the right one for the chemicals you use - when we first got the tub we went to a local pool place and that guy told us to just use bleach and baking soda to keep up with a small tub? now like I said we have every thing under the sun as far as chemicals go - what route would you suggest for that size of tub and what test kit (I hope that you all do not mind so many questions, but we just do not know) thanks so much for any and all help :-)
I have Brom tabs, Renew, Spa Shock, PH UP, PH Down, Scale Remover, Spa Frog packets, Alk Up, foam remover,,,,,,,,, I am just about out of money and skin LOL LOL
Quote from: ndabunka on February 16, 2013, 11:31:21 pm...You mentioned "Liquid" chlorine which was the only thing that gave me concern. Unless things have changed in the past few years, 95% of us use a granular chlorine (Di-Chlor) and most liquids are a TRI-Chlor which would NOT be recommended for hot tubs as it can cause deterioration.Clorox with a minimum 6% concentration is approved as a sanitizer for hot tubs and pools when used correctly.
...You mentioned "Liquid" chlorine which was the only thing that gave me concern. Unless things have changed in the past few years, 95% of us use a granular chlorine (Di-Chlor) and most liquids are a TRI-Chlor which would NOT be recommended for hot tubs as it can cause deterioration.
Approved by who?
Quote from: hottubdan on February 23, 2013, 12:06:28 amApproved by who?The United States Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) that registers all pesticides. See the PAN Pesticides Database where Clorox bleach has an EPA registration number of 5813-50 and under Uses it is a "Disinfectant" and under Crops and Locations it shows "Swimming pool water", "Swimming pool water (wading pool)", "Hot tubs (outdoor) (water treatment)", "Spas (outdoor) (water treatment)". See pages 21-22 of this EPA document (from the most recent label approval in the Pesticide Product Label System) for swimming pools and pages 25-26 for wading pools and pages 32-33 for spas and hot tubs. There is also this service bulletin from Clorox with the same information.Do not use just any bleach. Specialty bleaches, such as "splashless" or "outdoor" contain additional chemicals that you don't want in a pool or spa since the thickening agents can cause foaming. Also, do not use bleach without having some CYA in the water first or else the active chlorine level will be too strong (known science since at least 1974 when the equilibrium constants of chlorine unbound and bound to CYA were definitively determined as described in this paper). CYA significantly moderates chlorines strength. You want some in the water (30-40 ppm), but not too much. Continued use of Dichlor-only will build up CYA which is part of the reason water turns dull/cloudy sooner with that method than with Dichlor-then-bleach. Also, when using any hypochlorite source of chlorine in a spa with lots of aeration (such as jets), you need to have the Total Alkalinity (TA) level kept lower (as low as 50 ppm if necessary) and use 50 ppm borates as a pH buffer.