Water Maintenance

[TwinCitiesHotSpring]

Thanks for the input.
This really goes against all I have read and thought I comprehended. I know you can get an MPS reading by using the proper "clearing" reagent in the Taylor kit. Maybe technically it is called something else, but the instructions for low chlorine recipe of Nature 2 refer to maintaining MPS levels along with the experts who post here.

you have it right, I don't know if the user above is setting up to "shill" a product or what but go with exactly what you were doing listed above per Chem Geek's instructions and you will enjoy that tub for 15 years

[Wizard]

MPS will stay in the water until it is used up but it's primary function is to burn off combined chlorine and is in no way to be considered a sanitizer. The more dichlor you use the harder it will be to maintain clear water as it contains cyanuric acid which degrades the ability of the chlorine to oxidize which is how chlorine sanitizes water.

Dichlor does not lower MPS levels.

There is a lot of science behind this and much to lengthily to describe here. PM me if you want to learn more.

[goose973]

To the OP, many of us that choose to use chlorine as the daily sanitizer DO use dichlor for a period of time until the cyanuric acid reaches an appropriate level (50 ppm or so). Then, you can switch to regular laundry bleach. I have found that 2 fluid oz. of 6% bleach equals a teaspoon of dichlor. Bleach doesn't contain cyanuric acid, so that prevents the cyanuric acid from getting too high.

[HuMan321]

MPS will stay in the water until it is used up but it's primary function is to burn off combined chlorine and is in no way to be considered a sanitizer. The more dichlor you use the harder it will be to maintain clear water as it contains cyanuric acid which degrades the ability of the chlorine to oxidize which is how chlorine sanitizes water.

Dichlor does not lower MPS levels.

There is a lot of science behind this and much to lengthily to describe here. PM me if you want to learn more.

Hi, thanks again for all the responses and letting me know that dichlor does not lower MPS levels. I use the MPS with maintained levels along with Nature2 and Ozone to run with the "low chlorine recipe" that is in the Nature2 manual and discussed on these forums.
I had thought I read that MPS works best keeping ammonia and other items from attaching to prevent combined chlorine and shocking with dichlor was the way to "burn off" combined chlorine??
Either way, so far what I am trying with MPS Nature2/Ozone is to only use dichlor to shock once or twice a week depending on use. This should keep CC from building up too fast as well won't it? Now that I have a "feel" for how much MPS to add I find this method very easy to follow.

[goose973]

Yep, that works, too. I choose to do it with dichlor/bleach as the daily sanitizer instead of MPS simply because of the cost factor.

[HuMan321]

Bump in hopes chem geek will reply

[HuMan321]

Hi all,

I am still using the chemical procedure I listed earlier. The K-2042 interference reagent I ordered from Taylor arrived frozen so I still do not trust accuracy of the MPS levels I am trying to measure. While I am waiting for another shipment I wanted to ask others if they see a type of white residue on their step or elsewhere that water dried up from getting in and out?
We have a black top to our step and I noticed when the water dries the white residue and am surprised in that it seems to point towards alot of chemical when I was striving for minimal.
We still use our tub at least an hour each nightly at 99 degrees and I use about 2 Tbsp of MPS after to have maintained level 24 hours later at next soak.
This does not see like too much according to Chem Geek and his estimates with 24/7 Ozone?
Any comments are appreciated, especially if you have Taylor kit and MPS interference reagent usage.

[sorebikr]

Hi all,

I am still using the chemical procedure I listed earlier. The K-2042 interference reagent I ordered from Taylor arrived frozen so I still do not trust accuracy of the MPS levels I am trying to measure. While I am waiting for another shipment I wanted to ask others if they see a type of white residue on their step or elsewhere that water dried up from getting in and out?
We have a black top to our step and I noticed when the water dries the white residue and am surprised in that it seems to point towards alot of chemical when I was striving for minimal.
We still use our tub at least an hour each nightly at 99 degrees and I use about 2 Tbsp of MPS after to have maintained level 24 hours later at next soak.
This does not see like too much according to Chem Geek and his estimates with 24/7 Ozone?
Any comments are appreciated, especially if you have Taylor kit and MPS interference reagent usage.

White residue?  My instinct is this is a question of water hardness, not chlorine.  The only time I had anything like what you describe was when I had added calcium to increase the water hardness.  What a mistake that was.

[HuMan321]

Water hardness measures 88, PH=7.4, tot-Alk=95, TDS=1500

[HuMan321]

I have read where the "harmless" byproduct of using MPS is sulfate salts. I am now thinking this residue may be this?

[chem geek]

It takes a rather high calcium and sulfate level to produce calcium sulfate crystals and they are quite distinctive as shown in this link.