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If it looks like this:Then it is part number 30163. Google it, and if you can't find it, contact me and I would be glad to order it for you and send to you.Your tub has two heaters, and if you wanted to test it all out before spending any money, you could reassemble it and heat it on one of the two element. They are 2500 watts each, and do an amazing job running solo!The wiring diagram should be somewhere on the tub: inside the cover for the junction box is the fist place I would look. The basics are: You need to feed the tub with two circuits. One for the heater alone, and one for everything else in the tub.Look for a junction box - it may be metal and attached right to the black control box. Inside are four wires and a ground lug. You put the two hot wires from a 2P 30A GFI breaker to the largest two wires, one is red and the other blue. No Neutral wire goes to that breaker, just the two hots. Then you should have a black and white, and they will go to a 1P 20A GFI breaker. Notice that the neutral from the tub goes to the neutral lug on the single pole 20A GFI breaker and NOT to the neutral bus in the sub panel.I have a complete wiring diagram, but it is a PDF and I can't up load it here.HTH
I sent it off.What do you mean by "Kill Switch?" If you are referring to the door interlock switch, you can do fine without it. Just hardwire past it - bring the two wires together safely inside the box while you have it open.Please let me know if you are referring to something else!
Your serial number is II-111016 and it identifies your tub as a Sovereign 220, made in the first quarter of 1991. That matches the control panel you described.Let me look at the wiring diagram to see if it is different than the one I sent you - may have to get to that later today.The heater plug should be the same - and yes, that strange looking black thing with the plunger in it's center is a door interlock. You can wire past it, or simply push it in and hold it there with a small bolt through the side holes. If you want to keep it in operation (the new tubs don't have it, and when you consider that you have to use a screw driver to get the access door open it isn't really that important...) you need to be sure the metal 'fin' which looks like a short section of angle iron on the back of the door fits into it once you have things all back together.You will still need two circuits as I mentioned above, and the easiest way to do that is with a sub panel near the spa. Put the two breakers in that box - it will fulfill the requirement of safely shutting off the spa when you need to, and give you full GFI protection. It also will allow you to put an inexpensive regular breaker back at your main power panel.Looks like the very same electrical diagram. More later as time allows -