WILL IT WORK??

[SPAMAN]

I'm looking at replacing my old 50Amp spa with a 2004 Sundance Optima.

I understand the heat wont come on if both jets are on high, my question does anyone out there have this same setup.  What are your comments about it?

I'm already hooked up for 50amps, Is going to 60 worth it?.  From what I understand it willl take some major rewiring to do it.   I live in Seattle so its pretty mild here, the heat shouldnt be much of an issue when using the tub.  I'd like to hear some opinions on this issue.

Do I really need to go to 60 amps?

[Roborph]

My j-370 is on 50a. I can run all the jets on high and the heater still comes on. I questioned the electrician about the 50a and he said ther would be no problem, and if there was he would upgrade it to 60a no charge.......

[Electro]

My experience with design and installation of building electrical systems tells me that you may have substantive costs to change from a 50 ampere to a 60 ampere system.  The wire sizes may have to be increased, any conduit will be larger, and the GFCI circuit breaker and associated box are more expensive.  For example, Square D makes a 50 amp GFCI Homeline package that goes for about $85 at retail, whereas the 60 amp version is only available as their top quality QO breaker.  That'll be about $98 for the GFCI breaker plus $39 for the better box.  $137 total versus $85 for the GFCI exterior box and breaker alone.

In my opinion, it is worthwhile to switch to 60 amps.  This could cost from $200 to $1000 or so, depending on the cost of electrical work in your area and how many components need to be upgraded.  But, you might want to wait on the upgrade and see how much of a problem it is to have the heat go off whenever both pumps are on the high speed.  You can use one pump on high and one on low without the heat going off.

On the other hand, if you have to pay an electrical installer for a couple hours work anyway to hook up the new hot tub and the required 60 ampere upgrades are minor, you should go ahead with the upgrade.

By the way, and I'm not recommending this:  The Sundance hot tubs come prepared for wiring to 60 ampere circuits, in terms of the software and hardware that controls the system.  If you or your electrician were to connect the tub to a 50 ampere circuit, without changing the factory settings, (Note that you should not do this) it will not turn the heat off when both pumps are on high.  And, it will probably work fine.  The reason is as follows:  Each 2.5 HP pump draws about 11 amperes on the 240 volt circuit, while the heater draws about 24 amps.  The other items (LED lights and control electronics) electrical load is negligible.  So, you have about 46 amperes of load, on a 50 amp circuit.  This could work indefinitely without tripping the breaker due to overload, but it is a violation of the National Electrical Code, since the requirement is for a maximum design load of 80 percent of the rating, which is 40 amps on a 50 amp circuit.  With a 60 amp circuit, the 80 percent allows for a design load of 48 amps and the entire hot tub is completely legal with a total load of 46 amps.

[Brewman]

The Optima comes configured to run off 50 amps.  The cost to have the jumper moved to allow 60 amp operation is nothing.  
Your wiring should be fine, assuming it's 6 gauge copper.  The only cost to you would be switching from a 50 to a 60 amp GFI breaker.  
There are less 60 amp GFI breakers on the market than 50 amp ones.  
In my case, which is probably in the minority, it was actually cheaper for me to install the 60 amp breaker.
My GFI breaker is in my service panel, which is the Square D QO series, which as Electro states, are more expensive than the QD Homeline series.
Outside I just have a 60 amp rated non fused a/c pull box as my disconnect.  
For some reason, the QO series 60 amp GFI breaker is about $20 cheaper than their 50 amp GFI breaker.  The only difference other than the amp rating, is that the 60 amp breaker does not have a terminal to hook a neutral wire to, as does the 50 amp breaker.  I can't see any other reason that the 60 amp breaker is cheaper.
That all said, my spa (Optima) can run the heater with both pumps on high.  Not sure how often the heater kicks in with both pumps on, possibly in the winter.  
I agree with electro, go with the 60 if you can, unless it costs you too much.    

[brian_tr]

I have my Sundance Cameo hooked to a 50amp.  I have used the tub in 20 degree weather and only notice a one degree drop while in the tub with pumps on high and blower on after 30 mintues.  

[doodoo]

Sapman. You are right that the heater won't kick on if both Pum one and two are operating. If you live in a cold climate (like me) the you tub experience could prove uncomfortable after a while. Electro and brewman have it bang on. The optima comes with the capability of 60 amps which will run all three peices of equipment and the jumper thing is a no-brainer.

My electrician did not charge extra as I did ask around on costs to install the 60 amp.

[Brewman]

Sounds like you had an honest electrician.  If you are having the whole wiring thing done professionally, then the only difference between a 60 and 50 amp installation is the cost difference between the breakers.  Minor compared to the cost of the entire job.
That's assuming no wiring exists for a spa.  Converting existing 50 amp to 60 could cost a bit, depending on the particular setup.
Brewman