Heater element

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I'm gonna install a heater element in my 2003 Caldera Geneva Utopia.

What should I do,and not do,in the process(obviously kill power)?

Thx,
Rich

[wmccall]

Simple, but good question.  Since my tub is also a 2003, I'll watch with interest.  I am assuming this is something that a reasonably intelligent (and me) person can diagnose and replace themself.   I am going to guess the water has to be emptied.

[BNMac]

Unless you have gate valves to shut off the water to your heater/control section as mine does.  Of course, mine is a 2010 Columbia Teton model where it seems many of the manufacturers have standardized on a small set of controllers/heaters/plumbing setups, etc.

Good Luck!  I'd propose the following (simplified) process:
1) Kill the power.
2) kill the power.
3) Open the access cover to the heater.
4) check that the wife hasn't turned the power back on.
5) Check to see if there are gate valves on both sides of the heater... else, the water has to be drained.
6) yell at DW (Dear Wife) for turning the power back on.
7) Open the connection box on the control unit to check for power... and disconnect power again to prevent DW from killing you
Unplug the heater from the control box.
9) DW just informed you her hair dryer keeps quitting, and for you to leave the dam* power turned on.
10) Oh... wrong breaker.  Your bad.

B^)

[Vinny]

What BNMac said ... to a point. I'm not a spa tech but do repair electrical and electronic equipment.

Kill the power at the breaker box and test the tub to make sure you killed the right power and ALL the power is off; do not trust the GFI and/or assume it is totally dead.

If you do have gate valves great, if not - drain the tub - however you do it for a water change.

I would think that you need to open the electronic controller box, locate the heater wires and they either connect via spade connectors (probably not) in the control box or by terminal lugs on the control board or heater itself. If the lugs have 2 nuts (1 above and 1 below the wire), you may need 2 wrenches - 1  to hold the bottom nut and the other to remove the top one. If the heater screws in put teflon tape on it to seal the threads. Make sure everything is properly installed (nothing touching where it shouldn't), close it up and refill. I would think that if everything was installed properly and the new heater was OK from the factory it should go pretty smoothly.

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Everything works like a charm!!  Spent approximately 2 hours yesterday,dissasembling and putting back together.  Filled the tub back up with water last night,and it was almost 10ishPM when it reached correct level.

This morning at the crack of dawn,flipped the breakers,and it fired up perfectly,all LEDs correct color etc.

Waiting now to see/make sure it cuts off at 101 degrees,then off to take care of a few errands.

Later today or tomorrow,will post pics of the work detail,along with what I encountered etc.

[Chas]

The only 'tip' I have is that if this is a Caldera model with the 3/4 inch vinyl tubing on the heater, be sure to use the same type of clamp as the factory. That would be the spring type. In fact, if there is any other type on there, go to the spring type.

And, sometimes the tubing will leak very slightly at the heater for a day or two - until the vinyl tubing molds itself to the new fittings. I sometimes warm up the tubing with a heat gun to avoid this and make it easier to install everything.

Sorry I didn't spot this before you did the job...

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Thx for the tip Chas,but everything was installed,prior to you posting.

I did use O-ring clamps over the spring clamps,for the simple fact that when I put on the spring clips,I could twist the vinyl tubing(which I didn't feel comfortable with).  Ran to a parts store last night,and bought O-ring clamps. Everything as far as fittings,are tight(not overly tight mind ya),and no leakies since I fired her up,this morning.

I'll go into more detail,of what I did and what I encountered,as soon as the battery on my camera is charged lol.  I just went to take a few pics,and of course,battery dead.
I'll post pics with verbal description,so easier to understand(had to fab/modify a few things to make things work)

Lastly,why shouldn't I use O-ring clamps?   Can't be much different than clamping hoses to a heater core on a car  IMO.

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Ok,battery charged,and here's some pics with description/s.............

In these first 3 pics,are the old parts I took off (except clear vinyl tubing,which came in new kit).
Heater element assembly,thermistor pressure switch cable,insulation sheathing,and spring clamps. The pressure switch in old model,is screwed on side of manifold.







In the next two pics,are new parts installed,and the o-ring clamps I used....






Continue in next post

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In the next pic,is where I attached the circ pump to the heater manifold(2 O-ring clamps).  In the kit was a 3/4" piece of vinyl tubing,which I cut to fit within the 1" original reinforced vinyl tubing(though it was stupid,not having a reducing coupler in the kit) I had to remove the circ pump,in order to fit everything together,and reposition the circ pump almost an inch from it's original position.  Once all the connections were semi tight,I slid the heater manifold outlet,in position,and then fastened motor housing bracket of the circ pump,to the base.



Here's a few more pics of circ pump etc..







continue in next post........

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Here's pics of the electric,and the PCB's.
I did replace the heater relay circuit board awhile back,as the old had an obvious short/arching on it. I was hoping that would fix it,but it was a combination of the PCB and the heater element.











continue in next post........

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In the last couple of pics,you can somewhat see the LEDs for the juice to the board LED,and heater on LED.

This project wasn't too hard,other than having to field cut the vinyl tubing to "slip-joint" into the 1" opening(again,part producer cheaped out!!)and having to remount the circ pump.  Woulda been nice if the instructions came with exact slip-joint,or at least gave me the measurement. The instructions in this kit were somewhat vauge,and might hinder the novice DIYer.

I still have to get a new blower unit(it crapped out awhile back) but,as i rarely/never use it,it's not high priority. If grand-daughter comes to visit,I'll get it fixed then,as she only likes/loves bubbles,and the big jets scare her lol.

I also have to repair the bottom section of the frame,where the screws secure the access panels. Over time,the pressed female threads have spun from the somewhat waterlogged and rotten,frame.  I'm gonna fill it with a Marine grade epoxy,overdo it etc,and then drill/tap out through the epoxy.

Have replaced the cover once in over 7 years of ownership. The original cushions for the seats/headrests are still in great/excellent shape.  All the jets with bearings(with routine cleaning) are still working like new.  The little euro spinner jets need replacing.  About half of em are in the stuck position(assuming plastic on plastic for over seven years)

Lastly,the Weir skimmer needs replacing. Like the Euro spinners,plastic on plastic over the years,have made it a rough/frictional surface.

Oh,was just thinking,out of warranty costs  for a spa over 7 years old,650 bucks roughly.  That covers heater relay PCB,heater element,and new cover.  Not included yet,is cost of a blower.

[hottubdan]

You should replace that blower sooner, rather than later.  As it is now you have a dead zone getting no circulation or sanitation.  I predict when you do replace it, you will blow out some gunk (technical term).

[wmccall]

I'm sure my heater will fail in January, not July.