MN people?! High pH-best way to add Spa Down

[kervis]

Drained and refilled while it was above freezing yesterday as there are no more of those warm days in sight for awhile.  

I am curious to know how the high pH owners (DARK pink, over add their decreaser.  I just dissolved and added 4 oz to the center of the tub and will let is sit for 4 hours before adding more.  

Once I added 10 oz, in increments, pretty close together and it ended up being a bit too much.  I could have stopped at 8.  Once I kept adding 2 oz, over the course of a day, then lost whatever I had gained by that process overnight-went to bed without it being down quite enough  It was like starting over.

I am a dichlor user, so I know that will bring it down over time.   I don't mind it being a little high because of this, but I start out VERY high and do need to bring it down a bit.
 Once I finally do get it down, I struggle to keep it from going too low and it seems as my water just falls apart from then on.

At $33 a bottle for the pH lock--I think that is just too much and I'd have to use the whole bottle, after using a bunch of pH down--I am very aware of all of the scoops of chemicals I am adding-yikes.

There has got to be someone who has figured out a fabulous method of bringing down the high pH without using a ton of chems and can share it with me!

Thanks.

[Steve]

Before you even begin to adjust pH, you need to know your alkainity. Alk is a buffer for pH. If your alk is 40ppm (correct range being around 100ppm), it will draw your pH down and visa versa.

Once alk is in range, slowly adjust pH. ppl often try to get immediate results with all tests. pH should be adjusted over a 2-3 day period slowly once alk is in range.

Steve

[kervis]

Thank you, I shall re-focus my efforts on the proper test!

My alk is equally high, around 185.

I shall try to remain patient, thanks for the reminder.  

[ndabunka]

WOW!  You use a LOT more than I EVER have.  However, the guidance on first lowering the Alk is right on.  The PH really does NOT matter until the Alk is right.  

The ONLY time I had to add a LOT of PH down was when my hardness levels were FAR too low.  We have fairly "soft" water here.  If yours is the same, you may be getting incorrect results that will be hard to "dial in". Almost none of the strips will show you the hardness level and even using the test kits can be tricky (expired agents, etc).  So, you may want to get a complete water test by a local shop to verify where your "starting" hardness levels actually are.  If they need to be raised (like mine did), you can use calcium pellets (fairly cheap) and then re-test.

Once I got my hardness level correct, it only took a VERY little PH down to have a significant effect (that STAYED overnight and longer without anything like the "stabilizers" others may try to sell you.  The bottom line is that once you "get it right", you really don't need any of the "stabilizers" IMHO)

[Chas]

Also - remember that if your chlorine or bromine levels are high the test strip will not be able to give you the correct readings on pH or TA.

 8-)

[Steve]

Also - remember that if your chlorine or bromine levels are high the test strip will not be able to give you the correct readings on pH or TA.

 8-)

Ah, very true Chas and I often forget to mention that. High chl/br readings will "bleach out" pH readings and make it look much higher than it really is. Always test pH when your sanitizer reading is in proper range!

Just out of curiosity ndabunka, what's the relationship between low calcium and having to add pH down?

Steve

[ndabunka]

Ah, very true Chas and I often forget to mention that. High chl/br readings will "bleach out" pH readings and make it look much higher than it really is. Always test pH when your sanitizer reading is in proper range!

Just out of curiosity ndabunka, what's the relationship between low calcium and having to add pH down?

Steve

It wasn't so much related to PH Down as it was to stabilizing the chems.  I found that my alk would climb up quickly if the water doesn't have enough hardness.  And unless the correct hardness was available, it was difficult to keep the PH within a certain range.  So, it helps get the alk down and then also helps to stabilize the water over a longer term.  I don't remember where I read it (maybe Vermonters water treatment model?) but it seemed to work out well for me at the time.

[kervis]

Ok, I haven't touched the water since my last post. Those were right out of the tap and cold.  Now the water is warm with a few chems.  Here are my current readings:

chlorine=0 (ish)
pH=        7.8
alk=        150
calcium=  120


Now that I look at my book, it seems as though my calcium may be low?  Weird how the water can fluctuate.  As I look through my records, in Nov. 2006, my calcium out of the tap was 247, according to the sample the store tested.  AND, ndabunka, they told me to add 13.75 oz. of pH decreaser!!    

Well, it's 12 with a windchill that feels like -2.  I think I'll head outside to soak and mix up the water.  I'll bring a sample back inside to double check.  Then you can tell me what to do next!

[kervis]

I went out and used that fabulous machine.  When I came in, I brought my water sample:

pH   =8+
alk   =140
Calcium=150/160  the purple was sort of there at 150 but for sure there at 160

I have a taylor kit.

tomorrow I will look up what the numbers are supposed to be.  If anyone wants to do the math for me and just tell me how much of what to put in, that would be wonderful!  

[gadfly]

Take a look at the other thread currently going about pH.