Water Chemistry and Test Kit questions

[RK23]

I've had my '07 Caldera Niagara (500 Gallons) for just over 4 months now.  I know it's time to change my water, and I will be doing that next weekend.  But with some experience under my belt, I have a couple of questions that I thought some folks may be able to help with.

I have gone through a LOT of DiChlor (LeisureTime Spa56) in these 4+ months (probably about 2 1/2 lbs.)  Often times, I'll use multiple tablespoons and still not register any significant free chlorine on my test strip.  At times my PH and Alk have been low, in fact I've gone through quite a bit of Spa up (over 1 lb).  But even when I think i'm balanced via the test strips, my tub seems to need/use more Dichlor than most on this forum would recommend.  

I do shock with MPS (LeisureTime Renew) every 2 weeks or so.  But there has been trend that about every 6 weeks the tub has gotten pretty cloudy, and i've solved this by rebalancing, superchlorinating, and then using 1 oz LeisureTime Bright & Clear, and then chlorinating again.

Sorry for the long post, but wanted to be specific about my process.  Here are my questions:

1. Is this alot of chlorine to go through, if so why am i going through so much (my guess is not well balanced)?
2. Since I don't think i'm well balanced, I want a good test kit.  What test kit do you recommend and where is the best place to purchase online (I don't think my dealer carries anything but strips).
3. Are LeisureTime chemicals recommended, does anyone out there use these?  If not, who would you recommend and where could I buy them online?  (my dealer only sells the Leisure Time)
4. Is there anything else that I am doing wrong or anything else someone would recommend to me?

Thanks to everyone for your involvement in this forum and for any help you can provide...

[tony]

I've had my '07 Caldera Niagara (500 Gallons) for just over 4 months now.  I know it's time to change my water, and I will be doing that next weekend.  But with some experience under my belt, I have a couple of questions that I thought some folks may be able to help with.

I have gone through a LOT of DiChlor (LeisureTime Spa56) in these 4+ months (probably about 2 1/2 lbs.)  Often times, I'll use multiple tablespoons and still not register any significant free chlorine on my test strip.  At times my PH and Alk have been low, in fact I've gone through quite a bit of Spa up (over 1 lb).  But even when I think i'm balanced via the test strips, my tub seems to need/use more Dichlor than most on this forum would recommend.  

I do shock with MPS (LeisureTime Renew) every 2 weeks or so.  But there has been trend that about every 6 weeks the tub has gotten pretty cloudy, and i've solved this by rebalancing, superchlorinating, and then using 1 oz LeisureTime Bright & Clear, and then chlorinating again.

Sorry for the long post, but wanted to be specific about my process.  Here are my questions:

1. Is this alot of chlorine to go through, if so why am i going through so much (my guess is not well balanced)?
2. Since I don't think i'm well balanced, I want a good test kit.  What test kit do you recommend and where is the best place to purchase online (I don't think my dealer carries anything but strips).
3. Are LeisureTime chemicals recommended, does anyone out there use these?  If not, who would you recommend and where could I buy them online?  (my dealer only sells the Leisure Time)
4. Is there anything else that I am doing wrong or anything else someone would recommend to me?

Thanks to everyone for your involvement in this forum and for any help you can provide...

Under "normal" use, your 500 gal spa should need about two teaspoons of dichlor to get you to 3 ppm free chlorine.  You either have a very high chlorine demand which means something is using up all the chlorine you add or you have so high a chlorine reading that your strips are bleaching out and register zero.  If one or two people use the spa, that would take the "normal" dose.  If you have four to eight users, it will take more chlorine to get a reading.  A high chlorine demand could be excessive bacteria or a bio film which is difficult to break.  I would shock more often, weekly would be good.

Taylor kits are the most popular here.  I have a K2005 which is good for chlorine and bromine but uses a color comparative for sanitizer.  I have no problem with colors for chlorine with the kit or with strips.  I actually find good strips do a nice job with free chlorine.  Test kits do much better with pH and TA and are worth the expense, IMO.  Taylor also makes a titration kit for chlorine which is the K2006, but I don't necessarily see the need to be so exact.  RHTUBS.com sells Taylor kits.  Leslies pool supplies sell their own brand but they are Taylor rebranded.  You can also buy from the Taylor site itself.

I use Leisure Time chemicals.  My dealer sells them.  They are a fine brand.  RHTUBS also sells Leisure Time.  They are very well distributed.  I personally don't use Renew because it is buffered, meaning it has additives to make it pH neutral.  I prefer straight MPS and buy a very inexpensive no name brand because I add less product when I shock, but there is no reason for you not to use Renew at this point.

Cloudiness, more often than not, generally means not enough sanitizer is being used.  Balance weekly, maybe try shocking with chlorine vs Renew weekly and add a little chlorine on days you don't use the spa.

[RK23]

I personally don't use Renew because it is buffered, meaning it has additives to make it pH neutral.  I prefer straight MPS and buy a very inexpensive no name brand because I add less product when I shock, but there is no reason for you not to use Renew at this point.

Tony, thanks so much for the detailed response.  Does straight MPS typically lower or raise pH?

[Cyn]

I just want to add that using or not using an N2 cartridge makes a bit of a difference on how often you might have to add dichlor, as does an ozone system.  Assuming you use one or both, how often you use the tub on a daily/weekly basis and the number of users, as Tony mentioned, make a big difference as to how much dichlor you would need.  And not keeping the pH and TA in their prospective "good" ranges makes a huge difference on how fast the dichor is eaten up or even if it is in its more "useful" stage.

I agree with the Taylor test kit...I got mine at Leslies pool supplies, but the directions are Taylor, just as Tony mentioned.  I love the kit, but still have problems telling what my TA is with their system.  We have discussed the fact that what some people call red others call pink, etc., but if my pH stays fairly steady, then I am OK with what the TA is within that pink/red range.  

[RK23]

Thanks Cyn.  I do have ozonator and also have the Monarch mineral spa sanitizer (not sure, is that an "N2 cartridge"?).  Early on I was using the tub nightly, and my family of 6 about once a week.  Over the last month or so, I'm down to 2-3x/week and family still 1/week.  

I think balancing has to be much of my issue.  I just ordered the Taylor K2005, we'll see how I make out with my next batch of water, with (hopefully) better balancing and lighter useage.

[hottubdan]

Your Monarch cartridge is a private label Nature2 Cartridge.  If following Watkins/N2's instructions you should add a little MPS or chlorine 10 minutes before using the spa.  Look at the bottom of your filter lid or your owner's manual for exact amounts.  Folks here have other regimens.

Make sure you chemically clean your filter cartridge and change out the Monarch cartridge when you change the water.

[tony]

Tony, thanks so much for the detailed response.  Does straight MPS typically lower or raise pH?

Non buffered MPS typically lowers pH.