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If maintaining 2-3 ppm free chlorine, why use the Nature2? Seems to me you are throwing money away.
Pretty good routine. I would not use MPS however, as it lowers PH and increases TDH pretty quickly. I use dichlor after each use and shock with dichlor based shock every 1-2 weeks or if I get any foam or cloudiness. I used bromine and MPS on my first tub and had a very hard time keeping the water looking nice. Always chasing PH because bromine and MPS both lower PH. After a couple of weeks, TDH would be so high that the water effervesed (fizzed like alka seltser). Could not keep the water more than 2 months, then had to dump and fill.My suggestion: stick with dichlor. Get the alk up to 120-140 and PH will lock in. Don't use anything other than dichlor and PH/TA modifiers, ie: no anti-foam, no clarifiers and NO BROMINE.I have had my tub since January and have drained it once. Current water is about 4 months old, so I will probably drain soon, but it is crystal clear, no foam, no scum, no fizz, no cloudiness at all.txwillie
can things like STD's, etc. be transmitted through the water. I also worry about that when you are in a tub with other people that you don't know so well.. what if they have some sorta STD or something going on, could you get it from being in the same spa with them... and even more likely if the free chlorine level is basically at zero at the time of soaking?
If maintaining 2-3 ppm free chlorine, why use the Nature2?
Tony could you be more specific on your exact chemical treatment? You say you use MPS regulary, do you mean only once per week as a shock? or are you putting in MPS after each soak? if you look at the N2 directions, they call for MPS after each soak AND once per week as a shock. But I don't want to do that, I am going to use DiChlor after each soak and ONLY use MPS once per week for shock. I DO NOT want to shock with DiChlor UNLESS I need the additional sanitizing benefits such as after having friends or something in the tub (people that are wearing bathing suits and may not have showered first before getting in the tub.)
This tends to be a common thought, that I don't think is quite accurate. The 2 to 3 ppm of free chlorine is supposed to be measured 15 to 20 minutes after adding it. Regardless of any "alternative" product one might be using, this is the standard. So, the real question becomes, HOW MUCH chlorine does it take to achieve this reading? Since some to much of the chlorine will be exhausted during the first 15 to 20 minutes, oxidizing and sanitizing what's in the water, if it takes LESS chlorine to achieve this level, the "alternate" product has a benefit. How much less chlorine it take to achieve this level would determine how beneficial this "alternate" product is................... How to determine how much less chlorine it takes to achieve this level............well, that;s still a mystery
Tony sounds good. My tap water is from a well and it a bit different than yours. I just filled my tub last night, heated it up to 101 and before adding any chemicals I got my water tested at my dealer this morning. Here are my readings..Total Chlorine = 0PH = 8.7Total Alk. = 220Total Hardness = 305I don't have much Iron in my water but my water is hard (I guess with Calcium).So the dealer gave me my Bioguard printout and I have to add PH Decreaser to get my Alk and PH down. I then need to add Stain and Scale Control to get my hardness down.After these, I can add my Dichlor. Then I will install my N2 cartridge, and put in my Dichlor after each soak. Then once per week I will shock using ONLY MPS. Or if somebody that I feel is "dirty" was in the tub, I might through some extra Dichlor in to get the levels up around 5ppm to give the tub more sanitizing and kill off any nasties that somebody might of bought in.As for myself, when I soak myself I usually go in naked and try to shower first, so I usually don't bring much of anything into the water.