Balancing Chemicals--HELP PLEASE!!!!

[spaz]

Well, after 2 long months, the spa arrived last Friday and it is beautiful.  We had a tremendous amount of trouble with our builder so that's why I haven't been around in a while.  (I'll post pictures soon!)  But we are having a terrible time balancing the chemicals.  I developed some sort of rash that might be hot tub rash (but no one else developed it) or it could have come from chorline--measured at 5.4 when I had it diagnosed.  But the pH is low, the alkalinity is off, the calcium is not hard enough (apparently we have soft water here).  I thought this was going to be relatively easy from all I read.  I just can't seem to get it right.  My husband drained the tub just in case.  We are using the samples that came with the tub (Simple Blue Start).  

Does anyone have any recommendations on which products to use?  I have very senstive skin.  And any suggestions on how to keep everything in sync?  Measuring against a little color strip seems to have a lot of variables.  And the test strips we got only measure pH, alkalinity, calcium.

I've been looking forward to my spa for years and it's much more challenging than I expected.  I was never good at chemistry.

Any feedback would be very much appreciated.  HELP PLEASE!!!!!  

[CalicoskiesNC]

I find the test strips to not be very helpful.  I bought an inexpensive kit at Walmart, I think its Aqua Chem, in a blue plastic box.  I got it 3 yrs ago and they keep replacing all my reagents for free, I just call the 800#.  It measures pH, chlorine and alk.  There is another test in there too, but those are the only 3 I do.  

I think a lot depends on your water before it goes in your tub.  We've found that we need to add 1/2bottle of Metal Gone on fill up, we let that swim around for about 2hrs.  We also need to add Spa Defender every other week.  Other than that, we don't add anything but dichlor daily, and a dichlor shock on Sundays.  We use ozone and N2. We do use Swirl Away at every water change, I think thats an important part of keeping lines clean.  When we first got our tub, we were adding so much junk: Velvet Touch, foam down stuff, scent stuff, etc.  We don't use any of that now, we keep it very simple.  

My advice is to measure the pH and alk of your tap water and see where you are starting.  We fix our alk first, then work on the pH.  With my water, if I put my alk at 120, my pH stays pretty stable at 7.0.  We only check the water once a week.  Dichlor will lower your pH over time, so we occasionally add pH Up.  

There are many  people more knowledgeable than me here to help you.  I just want to say to stick with it, you'll get to know your water's needs and then it will be easy for you.  We've always used dichlor and its been great.  We add it after we get out in the evening.  The next time we get in tub, its mostly dissipated so it doesn't affect our skin.  Good luck and I hope things start making sense soon.

[anne]

My routine is almost exactly the same. It WILL get easier. Also check out rhtubs.com. This is "doc's site" that gets referenced here often. There is a page or two on the basics of water care, and it is very straightforward and complete.

[hottubdan]

For sensative skin, BaquaSpa (or equivilant) is the best if, and only if, you get educated and have an educated dealer you are working with.

It comes from the phamacutical industry and is gentler on the skin than chlorine or bromine or MPS.

Good luck and let us know how things work out.

[spaz]

Thanks everyone!  I went and saw the person who sold me the tub today--I felt so stupid because I've been calling, getting my water tested, etc.  I didn't expect it to be this complicated.  It's just frustrating because you just want to get in and soak but now I'm worried.  My husband and son had rashes appear this morning.  The dealer said we could just be having a chemical reaction to the Simple Blue that came with the spa and gave us some White River to try.  He also gave us the Bromine (sp?) instead of the chorline which I thought was more harsh to skin.

I'll give it a try.  Thanks for your support.  I hope I can get it right!!!!!  I'll keep you posted.  

[spaz]

I really believe it was the dreaded "hot tub rash" as now everyone has it.  I am told that Bromine is much better at keeping the tub clean.  I measured the Bromine level tonight and it is still null.  Any idea how long it takes for Bromine to dispense in the spa?  It is in the floater.  I really want to enjoy my spa!

[Vinny]

Not a bromine user but you need to put a packet of bromine starter into the tub to create a reserve of bromine - did you do that? I would imagine that if you have the starter pack in then bromine should register something with a floater. If you did put a packet in then open the floater more to see if you get a reading.

I'm a little curious about the bromine use ... bromine tabs have chlorine in it that the bromine converts to itself. If you are sensitive to chlorine I would think that the combo of the two is more problematic for your skin.

Make sure all the other parameters of your water are good and as said don't trust the strips. Hot water alone can cause problems with some people.

Hot tub rash (if it is that) may have been caused by not killing the bacteria. You used something that wasn't bromine or chlorine and the idea that bromine is better is not true when compared to chlorine. If your tub is infected with bacteria you need to hit it hard to kill all the nasties ... the only way to do that is with super high concentrations of bromine or chlorine.

I know your a newbie but some dealers know nothing about the chemsicals that are needed. They only know what was told to them. Use bromine but learn how to correctly use it. If that doesn't work then try chlorine. Baqua as a last resort. All have good and bad points and find the one that works for you.

[spaz]

Thanks Vinny!  But don't tell me hot water alone can cause a problem--I think I would croak!  It's funny, my hubby and I were just saying think of all the hotel hot tubs we've been in and never had a problem--we spend all this dough and have issues.  Anyway my dealer suggested I try the bromine as I guess it is easier to manage--don't know if it will be any better on my skin--if that is the problem.    

He told me to put (3) bromine tabs in the floater and then in the spa.  I don't know about a packet of bromine starter.  He didn't tell me to do that.  The ph measured perfect.  

[Vinny]

You need that starter to get the reserve. Go here: http://www.rhtubs.com/chemical-compare.htm for some info. Look online elsewhere if you need to.

Some people do react to the hot water and need to put lotions on. Most people don't. I think your problem is from trhe wrong chemicals and no info for help. Once you understand that then it will get really easy.

[spaz]

Today, I went out and purchased the Taylor K 2016 something vile/drop kit.  Okay as if I wasn't confused enough before, now I really am.  At first immediate test, nothing came up on the bromine but then after letting sit for a few moments, it registered high.  Then I did a test strip and still no bromine measured.  And yes there are explicit instructions with the vile kit but it doesn't say how long you should wait for the reading.  

I did not add the sodium bromide as I wasn't sure what the true reading really is.  

I feel sometimes like I need to be a chemistry major!  

[Vinny]

I went to the Taylor website and there isn't a K-2016 but there is a K-2006. It is supposed to be extremely accurate, more accurate than the K-2005 kit that most people use.

I never used it but if you did everything correctly you should take bromine or chlorine readings immediately after mixing, for some reason the longer the chems stay in contact with the test water the more they react with the water.

Taylor has a shorten version of directions on the site. Please verify the kit # and I will read the directions and see if I can help. I am really thinking you have very little to no free bromine in the tub, without the reserve and the fact there was (is) bacteria in the tub it is being used up.

[tony]

I believe you must have the Taylor 2106 which is supposed to be a very good and accurate test kit.  It is a titration(sp) test which differs from the 2006.  From what I see, the colors should change right away.  

[Chad]

http://www.taylortechnologies.com/products_results.asp?Type=ProductNumber&SearchString=k-2106

[Vinny]

Chad,

You were too fast for me. I deleted the question since I read the number wrong!!!

[Chad]

You should see how fast I move when my lady says she wants a foot rub.