What's the Best Hot Tub

Author Topic: Chlorine question  (Read 7713 times)

Chad

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1990
  • 2006 Jacuzzi J-345
Re: Chlorine question
« Reply #15 on: July 26, 2007, 10:16:27 pm »
Quote
Assuming you want to use a chlorine based system (for hot tubs, its called dichlor - AND NEVER TRICHLOR), take webini's advise and read about the "Vermonter method".  Basically, once your water is initially balanced (pH, Alk, Calcuim), you only use two  chemicals to maintain your tub.  MPS (Monopersulfate, which is a non-chlorine oxidizer) after each use, and Dichlor (which is chlorine) to "shock" the tub once a week, or as needed.

Rich,

You got the Vermonter method backwards. He recommends dichlor post soak not mps.





Hot Tub Forum

Re: Chlorine question
« Reply #15 on: July 26, 2007, 10:16:27 pm »

Richs100

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 858
  • From a 1993 HS Prodigy to a 2006 HS Envoy
Re: Chlorine question
« Reply #16 on: July 26, 2007, 10:28:14 pm »
Your right, Chad.  It was my Hot Spring dealer that tried to get me to use MPS after each soak.  I forgot.  Basically, I use Dichlor almost all the time now for the post-soak dose.  I alternate the dichlor and MPS for shocking.  Just found it works better for me and my water.

Cyn, I think its fair to say that you can use either of these chemicals in this way, but for your purposes in getting started, go with what the Vermonter Method recommends regardless of what my post said....sorry for the confusion.
If you don't have anything nice to say about someone, come sit next to me.

Cyn

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 266
Re: Chlorine question
« Reply #17 on: July 27, 2007, 07:58:35 am »
Thanks so much for the follow through and for checking out the website on my 'new' chemical regimen that was assigned to me by an uneducated dealer!!  I will follow through with your suggestions.   :) :) :)

Believe me, my intention was not to pick on Vinny.  I was surprised that anyone would bother to answer a question on the forum when they really didn't want to.  His first response was fine...it was when he decided that my asking someone to help me interpret the info on the product website was too much to ask.  Why was it necessary to berate me?  Even if he felt my request was just too much to ask of a free forum...that kills me...he didn't need to do anything at all but sit back and see if someone else was interested in helping me to find answers.

Thanks again!!  I very much enjoy the forum or I wouldn't be here...I feel Vinny should take that advice.  

tony

  • Ultimate Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2331
  • 2002 Optima
Re: Chlorine question
« Reply #18 on: July 27, 2007, 08:07:15 am »
A quick look at the site shows the use of a granular bacteriacide which generally means the use of metals or enzymes to help kill bacteria (not sanitize).  There are many product like this on the market and have been for years.  If you want some good info on alternatives, look at Nature2, the Frog, the Natural, Eco One, Pristine Blue.  Some of these are offered by Doc at rhtubs.com accompanied by good information there.  This other site is seriously lacking details and information.

All these systems are registered bacteriacides which mean they work to kill bacteria.  None of them are santitizers.  There are only three...chlorine, bromine and biguanide.  To truely santitize you need to use one of the three even if you use a bacteriacide.  Now the product Cyn referenced seems to use chlorine with it, but I think there are more trusted "helpers" out there to research before making a decision.

The Vermonter method of sanitizing is a safe, easy and proven program.  Chlorine is more forgiving and simpler to use than other methods.  IMO it is easier for new users to get sanitizing under control with a good chlorine program and then can experiment with bromine or variations unless using a biguanide system.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2007, 08:32:19 am by tony »

Vinny

  • Ultimate Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4338
Re: Chlorine question
« Reply #19 on: July 27, 2007, 08:48:40 am »
Cyn,

You are a newbie, using test strips and a system that I've never heard of before. What recommendations can I give to you? Put more product "A" in and see what happens?? You asked why you have so much total chlorine and I responded why according to my knowledge of water chemistry. Did you shock with MPS or 10x FC. Not knowing what the FC is doesn't help you at all. If you noticed none of the people who I know are dealers responded to you - it seems to me that the system is not popular.

Other people have answered you and they are trying to persuade you to use the Vermonter method as I was trying. My belief is you want us to solve your system problem and tell you how to run that system so you can go along happily ever after. WE are saying forget it but it seems you are hanging on to it.

I actually don't mind helping people an as a matter of fact I will go as far as test people's water for them when they have a problem. If they listen great, if not they are on their own.

Sorry if you don't like my response but I can't hand hold you over the internet.

I'm done!!!

Renee

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 194
  • '07 Jacuzzi J-365 in Nebraska
Re: Chlorine question
« Reply #20 on: July 27, 2007, 08:08:16 pm »
Quote
Total chlorine (TC) is the difference between free chlorine (FC) and combined chlorine (CC) [TC=FC+CC].

FC is the chlorine that has not been used yet. It has not sanitized or oxidized anything. It should be measured 20 minutes after adding and you shoot for at least 3 PPM. FC doesn not smell.

CC is the used up chlorine. It has done it's job and is sitting there basically doing nothing. If it gets too high it will start to smell like chlorine. There are 2 ways to get rid of it - 1) get the FC reading to be 10x the CC reading & 2) which is the easiest IMO, use non chlorine shock (MPS) and have it do it's thing.

A good test kit (Taylor k-2005) can differentiate between FC & TC, with the difference being CC. I used to use cheaper kits but found exactly what you found, they can't measure the difference in chlorine.

Since you've gone a week and it is reading something, my belief is that you are measuring CC. Chlorine usually, unless you get chlorine lock, will disipate within a day or so.

BTW, it is a good idea to shock the tub with chlorine every so often just so you kill anything that may have survived the 3 PPM routine.

Hope this helps!

Hey Vinny...
I think this is one of the best posts I've read in regards to chemicals!  I'm trying to get this all figured out BEFORE our hot tub arrives in a couple of weeks so I know what the heck I'm doing.  (And I'll also know if the dealer knows what he's talking about when they set me up!)  When you explained the differences between FC, CC, & TC, a light bulb went off in my head....it actually makes sense now!   Thanks for the time you give to this board to educate us "newbies".  It is very much appreciated!
--renee

Vinny

  • Ultimate Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4338
Re: Chlorine question
« Reply #21 on: July 27, 2007, 08:27:47 pm »
Quote

Hey Vinny...
I think this is one of the best posts I've read in regards to chemicals!  I'm trying to get this all figured out BEFORE our hot tub arrives in a couple of weeks so I know what the heck I'm doing.  (And I'll also know if the dealer knows what he's talking about when they set me up!)  When you explained the differences between FC, CC, & TC, a light bulb went off in my head....it actually makes sense now!   Thanks for the time you give to this board to educate us "newbies".  It is very much appreciated!
--renee

Renee,

Thanks! If you have any questions, I will try to answer what I can!

Vinny

Mainer

  • Junior Member
  • *
  • Posts: 36
Re: Chlorine question
« Reply #22 on: July 27, 2007, 11:58:33 pm »
Vinny, you've got more patience than I do.  You're a good man.  Bill

Hot Tub Forum

Re: Chlorine question
« Reply #22 on: July 27, 2007, 11:58:33 pm »

 

Home    Buying Guide    Featured Products    Forums    Reviews    About    Contact   
Copyright ©1998-2024, Whats The Best, Inc. All rights reserved. Site by Take 42